26 September 2008

Torre del Oro y el Paseo de las Delicias

In the 13th century A.D., the Almohad (Moorish) dynasty constructed a fortification wall around the city of Sevilla. The tallest part of the structure, the Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold), still stands beside the Río Guadalquivir, and the smaller Torre de la Plata (Tower of Silver) is nearby. This afternoon, I visited the Torre & took an audio tour of its convoluted history. The math major in me was fascinated to discover that each tower in the fortification wall became taller & more multi-faceted until the wall culminated in the dodecagonal Torre del Oro. Over the centuries, the Torre was used by both Muslim & Christian rulers for a variety of purposes, including a prison, a storehouse for treasures from the New World, an embarking point for royal vacations, an entertainment venue for royalty, & a meetingplace for rulers & their mistresses. There were also failed attempts to convert it into a lighthouse (the beacon-looking structure is purely for decoration) & an office space (which is the reason the fortress has so many windows). The structure has been renovated several times, most notably after the Lisbon earthquake of 1755 caused the Torre considerable damage. While the origin of the tower's name is still subject to debate, the favored theory seems to be that the tower was once covered in a golden material.

After my tour of the Torre, I retraced my steps to find what I believe is the Torre de la Plata, the lesser-known (& obviously lesser-treasured) remaining tower. Then I wandered along the Paseo de las Delicias, which runs parallel to the Guadalquivir, & found some other interesting buildings. Seeing the river makes me feel a bit connected with the city; just like Pittsburgh, Sevilla was built for its proximity to the river. Although the addition of canals has significantly lowered the water level in the centuries since the city's birth, it's still clear how intertwined Sevilla & the Guadalquivir have become. It's just one more familiar elemant in what is both literally & figuratively a foreign land.

Photos here.

Nos vemos, Le <3.

24 September 2008

¡Vamos a pie!

Since I haven't added any new pictures in a few days, let me give you some fun facts on distances in Sevilla:

my apartment to CIEE study center: 1.23 mi
my apartment to University of Sevilla study center: 1.36 mi
my apartment to Calle Sierpes (shopping district): 0.93 mi
my apartment to Calle Betis (bar/restaurant district): 2.01 mi
CIEE study center to Cerveceria 100 Montaditos (my favorite tapas bar): 0.41 mi

For those of you keeping score at home, that means that in a typical day, I walk a bare minimum of 2.46 mi if I go nowhere except to CIEE & back home. If I get something to eat after class (& I usually do), that brings the total to 3.28 mi. Adding in a second exursion (to El Corte Inglés to shop, to Calle Feria for class, to the Museo de Bellas Artes for class), & I'd estimate I'm up to about 4.5 mi. Add in my nightly run, & we're at 7.22 mi. Finally, factor in a trip to Calle Betis for a drink, & we're at 11.24 mi. Considering that yesterday I did all of the above, plus got lost for about 45 minutes, it's no wonder my feet hurt a bit today.

I've also learned that distance is, in fact, a relative measurement. When a native of Seville tells you that something is "very close" to your present location, it really means you could be walking for up to 20 minutes, or between 1.25 & 1.33 mi, to get there. Luckily, the terrain here is flat -- no Pittsburgh hills to contend with -- so at least it's easy walking. Good thing I brought my running shoes!

PS: If you're taking the time to read this, chances are you're one of the people I'm missing talking to. So please feel free to e-mail me at lzaccone@gmail.com & let me know what's going on!

Nos vemos, Le <3.

21 September 2008

Excursión a Cádiz

Today marked the second excursion organized by my program. We visited the port city of Cádiz, which may be the oldest city in Europe. Founded as the trading base Gadir by the Phoenicians around 1100 B.C., Cádiz also has bragging rights as Columbus' embarking point on his second & fourth voyages. It follows, then, that the city's golden age was the 18th century, when the city prospered by 75% of Spanish trade with the Americas. After the loss of the American colonies in the 19th century, however, Cádiz plunged from its place as the richest & most cosmopolitan city in Spain.

CIEE led us on a walking tour around the city, where we saw the neoclassical ayuntamiento (city hall), circa 1800, & the catedral, whose origianl baroque facade was also completed in the neoclassical style. We climbed the dizzying concrete spiral ramp of the catedral's western tower for a 360º aerial view of the city. From here, we could really appreciate the differences in the air as well as the vista: it felt humid & breezy, & there was a distinct smell of salt. After the torre, our guide led us on a seemingly endless tour of old city streets, oceanside promenades & plazas. We all knew that both the beach & our 4 hours of "tiempo libre" were tantalizingly close, & even I found it hard to concentrate on photographing the sights.

Finally, we stopped in front of a beach & were released for the afternoon. Some friends & I spent our time swimming, laying out, tossing a frisbee & rediscovering that there's a reason the ocean is described as "briny." All in all, both an educational & entertaining excursion.

Photos here.

Nos vemos, Le <3.

20 September 2008

Alcázares Reales

Originally a Moorish fort, Alcázar derives its name from the Arabic word for "fort." (All Spanish words that begin with "al-," roughly translated as "the," have Arabic origins. Think of the English word "algebra.") Since its founding in A.D. 913, the Alcázar has undergone numerous renovations by both Muslim & Christian residents. This explains the appearance of Gothic elements in what was once an entirely Moorish structure.

Photos here.

After visiting Alcázares Reales, we walked to La Plaza de España. While my friends enjoyed their first visit to the Plaza, I discovered a balcony I hadn't climbed to the first time around.

New photos at the end of the album.

Nos vemos, Le <3.

19 September 2008

La Avenida de la Constitución

Today after class, a friend & I wandered la Avenida de la Constitución, the Main Street of sorts of Sevilla. The road is closed to automobile traffic, which leaves room for pedestrians, bicyclists & a slow-speed tram. The avenue's main attraction is, of course, the Catedral, whose original mosque was torn down as a combination of its own decay, Sevilla's fall to the Christians & a common goal: "Let us create such a building that future generations will take us for lunatics." The new structure was completed in 1507 in the Gothic style, but when its central dome collapsed in 1511, the repairs were done mostly in the Renaissance style. Other sights include the Post Office, the Bank of Sevilla & a few other stops that aren't technically on the Avenida.

Photos here.

Nos vemos, Le <3.

17 September 2008

Los Jardines de Murillo

In my treks across the city, I have passed a little park several times now. Today, camera in hand, I decided to walk through it. For bordering a four-lane road, the park itself is incredibly peaceful. The towering palm trees are still a novelty to me, and so is the dirt, which is more of a mustard color than any familiar shade of brown. I've also noticed that the ground is almost entirely without grass, which is probably due to the drought plauging the city. Still, the park was beautiful with its fountains, monuments and decorative tile -- three things in abundance in Sevilla.

Photos here.

Nos vemos, Le <3.

¿Tengo que estudiar, también?

El Palacio, the CIEE study center, is a three-story building tucked into a narrow side street. In order to get there, one must take a lot of other windy, bumpy stone streets. These were constructed years before anyone could have realized that one day, both cars & pedestrians would try to share these tiny passageways. Thus, the front doors of the palacio open directly onto the street, save about 12 inches of what Spaniards call "sidewalk." The building itself consists of 2 levels of small classrooms centered around an open-air courtyard of sorts, where a fountain now sits. What they call the third floor is actually the roof, but it is also surrounded by rooms that now serve as offices. A striped tarp is stretched across the railing of the third floor to provide shade in the courtyard. Except for the somewhat spacious lobby/courtyard, everything about the building is tall & thin. Like many buildings in this city, it exemplifies the old adage of urban living: if you can't build out, build up.

Photos here.

Nos vemos, Le <3.

16 September 2008

¡Vamos de compras!

About 10 minutes from my host family's apartment lie the Calles Sierpes and Tetuán/Velázquez, the central shopping district of Sevilla. The narrow, stone streets are lined with elegant 3-story buildings that require a bit of neck craning to fully admire. Spanning many of the buildings are giant white tarps, some bearing the Coca Cola logo, which provide shade for weary shoppers. Put together, the effect is somewhat like standing in a flower vase looking up at a billowing sail -- enclosed and protected but not penned in. The variety of items offered here is all-encompasing: wedding gowns, fans, jewelry, baby clothes, books, American and European brand names... even a sex shop hidden down an enclosed alleyway. The variety of architecture found in the buildings is equally impressive; like the rest of this city, the Calle Sierpes seemlessly incorporates new edifices into the centuries-old landscape.

Photos here.

Nos vemos, Le <3.

15 September 2008

La Plaza de España

The buildings in the Plaza de España were constructed for the 1929 international fiar, where the Spanish-speaking countries came together for a mutual admiration fiesta. The intricate tiel work depicts historic scenes & maps for every province in Spain, arranged alphabetically fromn Alava to Zaragoza.

After visiting Itálica, some friends & I walked to the Plaza. Assuming I'd be seeing a fountain & an intersection of streets, I was completely taken aback when we passed through the doors of a seemingly-plain edifice into the grand plaza.

Photos here.

Nos vemos, Le <3.

14 September 2008

Excursión a Itálica

In 206 B.C., Itálica was established by a Roman General as a site for wounded soliders to recuperate from battle during the Second Punic War. In addition to being the first Roman city in Spain, Itálica provided 2 emperors, Trajan & Hadrian, who ruled druing the second century A.D. Today, Itálica is famous for its amphitheatre, which seats approximately 30,000 spectators, & its surviving mosaics.

When we began our tour today, we started in front of a heap of ruins supported with "reconstructed" brick & metal. For a while, my friends & I were wondering if all we would be seeing was a pile of rubble. But as we followed the guide up some stiars & through an archway, we realized that we were overlooking the expansive amphitheatre. From that unanticipated moment of discovery, our tour became a rush to take as many photographs as possible while keeping up with the brisk pace of our guide. Needless to say, in my case, the former won, so please excuse the photos for which I don´t have a thorough explanation.

Photos here.

Nos vemos, Le <3.

13 September 2008

Mi familia española

On Wednesday afternoon, after more orientation sessions, we returned to the Hotel Bécquer to find our host families crowded into the tiny lobby, waiting to meet their new niño or niña. Working my way through the crowd toward the elevator, I found myself wondering which of these señoras I would be leaving with. Matching students with their families was chaos; one wide-eyed student after another struggling both to drag her luggage through the hubbub & to understand the rapid-fire greetings & questions of her host family.

Finally, my name was called & I met my señora, Piedad. I think I muttered a sleep-deprived “Mucho gusto” before losing track completely of what she was trying to tell me. Outside, her husband Paco’s car had broken down, so she & I took a taxi to the apartment building while he stayed with the car. With the help of my dictionary, I asked if she had hosted other students; she replied that I would be the 18th. The taxi made so many turns that I lost any sense of direction in the narrow streets, but eventually we arrived at my new home in the Puerta Osario zone of Sevilla.



















my neighborhood

































my apartment building



my host family, Paco & Piedad

Piedad showed me to my room & left me to settle in while she prepared lunch. When Paco returned, we ate & talked as best we could. I asked why they decided to start hosting students, & they replied that they enjoy learning about the United States as well as helping Americans to learn about Spain. They are both very interested in my family, my hometown & my home university; when Piedad saw me unpacking photos, she & Paco immediately asked to see them & to know who everyone was. The next day at breakfast, Paco brought out an atlas & asked me to point out Pittsburgh. Then we read about the city’s history in his encyclopedia. Later, the three of us looked at pictures of Carlow, Oakland & Pittsburgh on my laptop.













my room



















the bulletin board has photos of all the previous exchange students
These past few days, I don’t think that my host family could have been any nicer or more helpful. When I had to find the Palacio (the CIEE study center) only hours after arriving in the apartment, Paco & Piedad walked the 30-minute route with me to make sure I wouldn’t get lost. When I told them I wanted to read about Itálica before my group’s excursion there this weekend, both recounted the site’s history. They enjoy talking & asking questions, some of which I never would have anticipated; Paco asked if I like Glenn Miller’s music, & Piedad asked if I have ever played Rummikub.

Of course, living with a Spanish family introduced a few new rules. First, shoes should always be worn inside the house. There is an old wives’ tale saying that those who go barefoot on tile floors will catch cold, and Spaniards still observe this tradition. This is a new concept for me because I usually take off my shoes whenever possible. Second, anything not currently in use should be turned off or unplugged. My family uses electricity as rarely as possible, unplugging the toaster and shutting off the power strip for the television each time they’re done watching it. This is also a change for me, since I’m used to leaving my computer on, usually with several gadgets charging in the USB ports.

But perhaps the most unfamiliar rule I have encountered in my homestay involves parking cars. On my street & many others, double parking is necessary in order to have enough spaces. When someone does double park, however, they're not supposed to use the emergency brake. That way, a driver that is blocked in can clear a path herself by pushing the other cars backward or forward until there is enough room to drive. If someone forgets or chooses not to put the car in neutral, the driver hoping to leave lays on the horn until the offending driver appears to move his car; if no one appears, the police will tow the vehicle.



















[coming soon: videos of the parking situation]

After a few days of settling in, I am looking forward to next week’s events. Sunday, we take a day trip to Itálica. Monday, our intensive language course begins & I can sign up for the theatre special interest group. Thursday, there is a mixer for us & for Spanish students interested in practicing English. Plus, I still need to explore this gorgeous city, see the sights & find the pool hall my guide told me about! Nos vemos, Le <3.

09 September 2008

¿Cómo se dice…?

After a good night’s sleep, everything here is still foreign. The lights in our hotel room only turn on when the key card is inserted into a slot by the door. Pedestrians, bicyclists, moped & automobile drivers all share narrow one-way streets. The local bank displays the temperature in Celsius & the hour in military time. Societal standards are different: feet belong in slippers or shoes & on the floor at all times, & full meals are taken at mealtimes whether one is hungry or not. Even seemingly familiar objects have an air of peculiarity about them. Traffic lights are painted green instead of yellow, street signs have similar meanings but different symbols, & our hotel room key looks like a computer punch card from the 1950s.














And what would be a simple task in the U.S. becomes both a challenge & an adventure in Sevilla. To purchase & mail a postcard today required 3 dictionary consultations & 2 requests for help at the front desk. In the end, of course, it still was a simple task, but who knew stamps are sold at a kiosk labeled “tabaco”? Everything here is done a bit differently, & learning new procedures is always a bit trying.
Even in the midst of mounting differences, however, familiarities can always be found. Tonight, mine arrived in the form of theatre. After dinner, our program treated us to a local flamenco show. Just seeing the stage in front of me made me feel comfortable; at least in this instance, I would know the procedures. The performance consisted of a guitarist, a singer & two dancers performing on a simple platform in the plaza of a hotel. The male dancer was particularly entrancing in his intensity; when he stepped from the platform toward us, I heard gasps escape from all sides.




















































This is our second & final night in the Hotel Becquer, with all its strange procedures. Tomorrow afternoon, I will meet my host family & move into their home. Undoubtedly, the move will be accompanied by all sorts of new procedures, but hopefully there too will be hidden glimpses of familiarity. Nos vemos, Le <3.


08 September 2008

He llegado

After nearly 24 hours of traveling, I’m happy to say that I’m writing my first entry from Sevilla. Luckily for me, the worst thing that happened during my flights was spilling orange juice all over my pants somewhere above Europe. Also luckily, I sat next to 2 nice gentlemen on the first 2 legs of my flight (Pittsburgh to Philadelphia & Philadelphia to Madrid).

Flying east at dusk is an almost indescribable experience. There is something unsettling about flying into the sunset, however poetic it may sound. Night falls all too quickly, especially over the ocean. The brain understands that you are flying across time zones toward a later point in the night, but your breath still catches each time the mind asserts that darkness has fallen all too quickly.

The aerial views of the cities, however, are beautiful. I couldn’t get over how level Philadelphia was or what perfect right angles the streets formed. Madrid just before sunrise was equally gorgeous, visible only as concentrated centers of light on a dark earth.

Before I get too carried away waxing poetic, however, I have to admit that I do also have a fear of flying, facilitated mostly by “The Twilight Zone.” When I realized I was overlooking the wing on 2 of my 3 flights, I couldn’t help but recall the famous Shatner episode.

what I saw:

















what Shatner saw:















Now I’m writing from the Hotel Bécquer, where I’ll be staying for the next few days for orientation. Although we were escorted here by bus, it was still a self-guided adventure, as was decoding the mystery of international calling using a pay phone. An acquaintance & I have already been asked to switch rooms once the fourth & fifth roommates arrived in our 3-bed living space.

the new room:
















This is all only temporary, though, & what I am hoping is a result of the chaos of check-in. Tonight is our first official group meeting, which I am hoping will provide more information & guidance regarding what’s to come. And once I know, you’ll know. Nos vemos, Le <3.

06 September 2008

¿Por qué España?

Tomorrow, I begin a semester-long study abroad in Sevilla, España, or Seville, Spain. Well, I should say I begin the journey TOWARD a semester-long study abroad; I won't actually land in Spain until Monday. Either way, I won't know with whom I'm living or which classes I'm taking until I arrive, but I do know that I'm in for an adventure.

Why Spain? It seems like a good place to start writing, since everyone keeps asking. The short answer is, I'm a Spanish major. The long answer is, I'm fascinated. The following is a brief (believe me, for a country with so long a history, the following is brief!) overview of all the influences that Spain has seen over the centuries, as exerpted from my guidebook, Lonely Planet's Spain, for anyone interested in learning a bit more. Otherwise, check back soon! I plan to update this blog frequently & promise to never again write a long essay on history unless there are plenty of accompanying photos! Hasta pronto, Le <3.


Spain's history begins with the oldest known human bone fragments in Europe, estimated to be around 780,000 years old. From there, civilization can be traced to cave paintings enduring from 12,000 B.C., or 4,000 years before the last Ice Age. By 1000 B.C., culture was flourishing under Greek & Phoenecian influences & with the introduction of the potter's wheel, writing, coins, the olive tree, the grapevine, the donkey & the hen. Between 1000 & 500 B.C., the Iberians & the Celts arrived in Spain, the latter with the introduction of iron technology.

By 500 B.C., the Greeks & Phoenecians were being pushed out by the Carthaginians, & in 218 B.C., the Romans invaded. Around 50 B.C., Pax Romana was finally achieved, & the Romans introduced a road system, aqueducts, temples, theatres, ampitheatres, circuses, baths & its language & legal system. In return, Spain offered Rome gold, sivler, grain, wine, literature, soldiers & 3 emporers. Pax Romana was interrupted by the arrival of 2 Germanic peoples, the Franks & the Alemanni, & 2 further tribes, the Suevi & the Vandals, finished off the period of peace around A.D. 410.

That same year, the Visigoths sacked the city of Rome but settled in Spain when they lost their lands to other Germanic peoples. The new Visigoth kingdom was fraught with problems, mostly due to their lack of sophistication compared to the Spanish they sought to rule.

In A.D. 711, Muslims, or Moors, invaded from Africa & overtook Spain. The Muslims dominated Spain & Portugal for over 400 years, but their territory was constantly shifting due to Christian efforts at Reconquest, which began in A.D. 722. (Although freedom of religion was granted to both Jews & Christians, the latter were forced to pay a special tax, so many either converted to Islam or moved north.) After centuries of struggle, the Reconquest finally succeeded in 1492 with the fall of the city of Granada.

In addition to leading the Reconquest, Catholic monarchs & power couple Ferdinando & Isabel launched the Spanish Inquisition in 1478. Aimed at rooting out those who did not practice Christianity properly, the Inquisition was responsible for an estimated 12,000 deaths. Around 100,000 Jews were converted and a further 200,000 left the region, while most Muslims (around 300,000) converted but never assimilated. Additionally, Ferdinando was responsible for uniting Spain under one rule for the first time since Visigoth rule.

In 1517, Carlos I, grandson of Ferdinando & Isabel, sought out his claim to Spain. Two years later, he had succeeded in acquiring lands in Austria & in being elected Holy Roman Emperor, meaning that he ruled more of Europe than anyone else since the 9th century. During his reign, Cortés conquered the Aztec empire and Pizarro overtook the Incan empire. These new colonies provided huge quantities of silver, gold & other riches to Spain.

Felipe II, Carlos' son, continued to expand the overseas empire; by 1600, Spain controled Florida, the biggest Caribbean islands, nearly all of Mexico and Central America & a large strip of South America. Upon the death of Portugal's king in 1580, Felipe claimed the territory & united the Iberian Peninsula & Europe's two great overseas empires.

In the years that followed the rule of Felippe II, Spain suffered a series of losses. It first lost the territory of Portugal then parcels of its own land to Austria & Britain. Next, Spain lost its sea power in a defeat by the British navy. An attempt at a more liberal constitution met with resistance from the Church & the monarchy that lasted throughout the 19th century. By 1824, all of Spain's New World colonies save Cuba, Guam, the Philippines & Puerto Rico had won independence; these last territories were lost in the Spanish-American War of 1898.

By the 1860s, the anarchist ideas of Russia's Mikhail Bakunin had reached Spain, & by 1910, anarchist unions had gained power. By the 1890s, the push for Basque & Catalan separatism was also on the rise. Although Spain's neutraility in WWI afforded them an economic boom, unrest continued to grow.

In 1931, a new constitution gave women the vote, ended the status of Catholicism as the offical relgion, disbanded the Jesuits, stopped goverment payment of priests' salaries, legalized divorce, banned priests from teaching, gave Catalonia its own parliment & promised land redistribution. Even with the changes, violence rose. On July 17, 1936, the Spanish army garrison rose up against the left-wing government, inciting civil war. The Spanish Civil War lasted 3 years, claiming between 350,000 & 500,000 lives. Finally, on March 28, 1939, the rebel Nationalists claimed Madrid, & on April 1, Franco declared the war over.

After the war, an estimated 100,000 people were killed, & those imprisoned included teachers & intellectuals. Franco ruled absolutely, never allowing the Church, the legal political party, the army, monarchists or bankers to gain too much power. During WWII, Franco promised an alliance with Hitler but never committed himself. After the war, Spain was excluded from the U.N. but was later included during the Cold War in exchange for 4 U.S. bases within the country.

The Stabilization Plan of 1959, which was engineered in part by "Da Vinci Code" bad guys Opus Dei, brought an economic upswing by devaluing the peseta. Modern machinery techqniues & marketing were introduced, transport was modernized, & new dams rovided irrigation & hydropower. Funding came partially from the U.S. but above all from tourism; by 1965, the number of tourists visiting Spain had reached 14 million.

In 1969, Juan Carlos, Franco's hand-picked successor, swore loyalty to the dictator. When Franco died on November 20, 1975, Juan Carlos took power only 2 days later. The new leader removed Franco's prime minister & selected a replacement, Adolfo Suárez. Under the new government that ensued, a general amnesty was granted for acts committed during the war & under Franco's dictatorship, eliminating truth commissions & trials. In 1978, a new constitution was passed that declared Spain a parlimentary monarchy with no official religion.

In 1982, Spain elected a new leader, Felip González, who led Spain into the E.U. (then the European Community) in 1986. Although not without economic troubles, Spain hosted both the Olympics & the Expo 92 world fair in 1992, exactly 500 years after the success of the Reconquest & the first voyage of Columbus.

As much as I'd like to end this history here, I have to add one last historical event: the Madrid bombings. On March 11, 2004, bomps exploded on 4 commuter trains around Madrid, killing 191 people & injuring 1,755 others. Although the government blamed ETA, a Basque separatist organization, a 2-year investigation found that Islamic extremists were inspired but not directed by Osama bin Laden.