Last night, half of my luggage & I arrived safely home at the Pittsburgh International Airport. Hopefully, my other suitcase is soon to follow. Thanks to everyone who has followed my blog this semester; I hope you have enjoyed reading about my adventures abroad.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
20 December 2008
08 December 2008
Viaje a Marruecos
This week, I took advantage of a day off to participate in Discover Sevilla's 5-day trip to Morocco. I don't even know where to start this article; this is one of the most incredible things I've ever done. Since I'm almost at a loss for words, I'm going to skip even trying to provide historical context & get straight to the play-by-play.
On Thursday, we left on our trusty Rosabus at 5:15 A.M. By 9:00, we had reached the southern city of Tarifa & boarded a ferry to cross to Tangiers, Morocco. We continued on our bus adventure, which our DS guide David advised us to measure in memories instead of time, to Rabat. We lunched in the political & administrative capital then had a short walking tour of the city. After our tour, we continued in the bus to Fes, where we checked into our hotel, had dinner & got some rest.
Day 1 photos here.
Friday began our desert adventure. We checked out of the hotel early & spent most of our day on the road again. I couldn't believe the range of landscapes we passed: snow-capped mountains (there was a snowball fight during one rest break), rocky desert & mountains, & finally, after dark, the sandy desert of the Sahara. At the desert hotel in Merzouga, we traded in our buses for rugged 4x4s & began the bumpy drive across the desert. A little over an hour later, we changed modes of transportation again, this time to camels. For anyone that has never been on a camel, it's a scary experience. Unlike a horse, which just stands there while you climb up, the camel has to agree to sit down so you can clambor up onto it. If the camel doesn't happen to be inclined to do that, it creates an interesting impasse between the animal & the handler. Of course, that's what happened to me, but after a bit of convincing, I was part of the caravan crossing the desert by moonlight.
When we arrived at the oasis, which is called Erg Chebbi, we were greated by Berbers with Moroccan green tea. They played music & danced for us, & we selected our mattress beds in the tents circling the oasis. Then we had dinner, which was transported from the hotel. After dinner, a group of classmates & I decided to climb the huge dune behind the oasis. According to Wikipedia, the maximum height of the dune is almost 500 feet, but I'm not sure of the exact height that night. The face was so steep that I ended up crawling most of the way, & of course, when I thought I reached the top, I realized that the top half of the dune had just been hidden from view. When I finally reached the top, I was amazed by how many stars we could see. I've always heard about it, but you don't actually realize until you can look up at the sky without seeing any other lights around you. I stayed at the peak as long as I could stand the cold, but I finally climbed back down & went to sleep. I wish I could have slept outside, but it was only 40º or so, & even inside the tent, I was freezing.
Day 2 photos here.
Saturday, I woke up at 6:11 to tackle the dune again before sunrise. Seeing the path in front of me made the climb easier but also more daunting. By the time I reached the summit, a group of students were already there. The sunrise was incredible; I hadn't realized the night before how red the sand was or how expanisve the desert is. After the majesty of the sunrise, another of the guides brought out a snowboard (God bless whoever hiked up that sand dune carrying it!), & some people tried to either carve or sled down the dune. We made sand angels, took tons of photos, tackled one another into the sand, then unwillingly made the descent back to camp.
Before we had even had breakfast, we then tackled our second challenge of the day: the journey back to the desert hotel. We reunited with the camels, & this time I got a laid-back guy I named Andrew. Instead of transfering back to the 4x4s, we stayed on the camels the entire way back to the desert hotel, almost 2 hours. I hadn't realized how deep we had traveled into the desert, & it was amazing to be surrounded by sand for so long. After a while, though, everyone started getting sore, especially the guys; camels don't come equipped with a saddle the way a horse does. Finally, we reached the desert hotel.
After a nap & a shower, we took a quick tour of the town of Merzouga. We saw wells & the little plots of land for the Berber families & the irrigation system they use to water their land. All the time, little boys were running behind us with necklaces strung across their hands, asking us to buy one: "Ten Dirham, only one Euro!" We passed the rundown streets & houses & headed to a carpet emporeum. The vendors explained the materials used for each type of carpet then laid out a few samples. Then we were free to browse the rest of the merchandise. Anyone interested in purchasing was whisked off to another room to negotiate price. After all the purchases were made, we walked back to the desert hotel, pausing to enjoy the sunset & to play in the sand one last time.
Day 3 photos here & here.
Sunday, we woke up early again (a pattern I noticed in this trip) & got into the 4x4s to drive to Fes. Again, we were in the bus almost the entire day, measuring our time in memories & by how many movies we had watched so far that day. We stopped at an overlook to check out a valley with tens of thousands of palm trees in it. Then the usual routine of dinner, shower & sleep.
Day 4 photos here.
Monday marked the final day of our Moroccan adventure. We took a walking tour through the medina in Fes, which is where all the shops are located. Like the calles estrechas of Sevilla, the streets in the medina were really narrow. There was a ton of foot traffic plus the occasional cart, horse or mule carrying goods to the various shops. It was like stepping back in time. The medina is composed of some 9400 streets, so I was careful to stick close to our guide. We first visited a fabric shop, where they showed us blankets & scarves made of cotton, wool & silk. Next, we saw another carpet shop, where they laid out various patterns & sized. Our third stop was a pharmacy, which sells spices, teas & herbal beauty products. Here, the owner held up various items, described them to us, passed them around for us to sample, then let us shop. Finally, we visited the oldest leather store in Morocco, where they took us to the roof for an aerial view of the dyeing area before the shopping began. After the 4 stops, those who still had spending money were free to shop on their own for a half-hour before we boarded the bus again. From Fes, we drove back to Tangier, boarded another ferry, disembarked at Tarifa & drove to Sevilla, arriving here around 1:30 A.M.
Day 5 photos here.
I don't know what to say to summarize this trip. The food was amazing; the people were friendly. I never imagined that I would visit any part of Africa during my semester abroad, & I certainly never invisioned myself sleeping outdoors in a desert oasis of the Sahara. What I experienced this weekend is absolutely incredible, & I think that's the best means I have to describe it.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
On Thursday, we left on our trusty Rosabus at 5:15 A.M. By 9:00, we had reached the southern city of Tarifa & boarded a ferry to cross to Tangiers, Morocco. We continued on our bus adventure, which our DS guide David advised us to measure in memories instead of time, to Rabat. We lunched in the political & administrative capital then had a short walking tour of the city. After our tour, we continued in the bus to Fes, where we checked into our hotel, had dinner & got some rest.
Day 1 photos here.
Friday began our desert adventure. We checked out of the hotel early & spent most of our day on the road again. I couldn't believe the range of landscapes we passed: snow-capped mountains (there was a snowball fight during one rest break), rocky desert & mountains, & finally, after dark, the sandy desert of the Sahara. At the desert hotel in Merzouga, we traded in our buses for rugged 4x4s & began the bumpy drive across the desert. A little over an hour later, we changed modes of transportation again, this time to camels. For anyone that has never been on a camel, it's a scary experience. Unlike a horse, which just stands there while you climb up, the camel has to agree to sit down so you can clambor up onto it. If the camel doesn't happen to be inclined to do that, it creates an interesting impasse between the animal & the handler. Of course, that's what happened to me, but after a bit of convincing, I was part of the caravan crossing the desert by moonlight.
When we arrived at the oasis, which is called Erg Chebbi, we were greated by Berbers with Moroccan green tea. They played music & danced for us, & we selected our mattress beds in the tents circling the oasis. Then we had dinner, which was transported from the hotel. After dinner, a group of classmates & I decided to climb the huge dune behind the oasis. According to Wikipedia, the maximum height of the dune is almost 500 feet, but I'm not sure of the exact height that night. The face was so steep that I ended up crawling most of the way, & of course, when I thought I reached the top, I realized that the top half of the dune had just been hidden from view. When I finally reached the top, I was amazed by how many stars we could see. I've always heard about it, but you don't actually realize until you can look up at the sky without seeing any other lights around you. I stayed at the peak as long as I could stand the cold, but I finally climbed back down & went to sleep. I wish I could have slept outside, but it was only 40º or so, & even inside the tent, I was freezing.
Day 2 photos here.
Saturday, I woke up at 6:11 to tackle the dune again before sunrise. Seeing the path in front of me made the climb easier but also more daunting. By the time I reached the summit, a group of students were already there. The sunrise was incredible; I hadn't realized the night before how red the sand was or how expanisve the desert is. After the majesty of the sunrise, another of the guides brought out a snowboard (God bless whoever hiked up that sand dune carrying it!), & some people tried to either carve or sled down the dune. We made sand angels, took tons of photos, tackled one another into the sand, then unwillingly made the descent back to camp.
Before we had even had breakfast, we then tackled our second challenge of the day: the journey back to the desert hotel. We reunited with the camels, & this time I got a laid-back guy I named Andrew. Instead of transfering back to the 4x4s, we stayed on the camels the entire way back to the desert hotel, almost 2 hours. I hadn't realized how deep we had traveled into the desert, & it was amazing to be surrounded by sand for so long. After a while, though, everyone started getting sore, especially the guys; camels don't come equipped with a saddle the way a horse does. Finally, we reached the desert hotel.
After a nap & a shower, we took a quick tour of the town of Merzouga. We saw wells & the little plots of land for the Berber families & the irrigation system they use to water their land. All the time, little boys were running behind us with necklaces strung across their hands, asking us to buy one: "Ten Dirham, only one Euro!" We passed the rundown streets & houses & headed to a carpet emporeum. The vendors explained the materials used for each type of carpet then laid out a few samples. Then we were free to browse the rest of the merchandise. Anyone interested in purchasing was whisked off to another room to negotiate price. After all the purchases were made, we walked back to the desert hotel, pausing to enjoy the sunset & to play in the sand one last time.
Day 3 photos here & here.
Sunday, we woke up early again (a pattern I noticed in this trip) & got into the 4x4s to drive to Fes. Again, we were in the bus almost the entire day, measuring our time in memories & by how many movies we had watched so far that day. We stopped at an overlook to check out a valley with tens of thousands of palm trees in it. Then the usual routine of dinner, shower & sleep.
Day 4 photos here.
Monday marked the final day of our Moroccan adventure. We took a walking tour through the medina in Fes, which is where all the shops are located. Like the calles estrechas of Sevilla, the streets in the medina were really narrow. There was a ton of foot traffic plus the occasional cart, horse or mule carrying goods to the various shops. It was like stepping back in time. The medina is composed of some 9400 streets, so I was careful to stick close to our guide. We first visited a fabric shop, where they showed us blankets & scarves made of cotton, wool & silk. Next, we saw another carpet shop, where they laid out various patterns & sized. Our third stop was a pharmacy, which sells spices, teas & herbal beauty products. Here, the owner held up various items, described them to us, passed them around for us to sample, then let us shop. Finally, we visited the oldest leather store in Morocco, where they took us to the roof for an aerial view of the dyeing area before the shopping began. After the 4 stops, those who still had spending money were free to shop on their own for a half-hour before we boarded the bus again. From Fes, we drove back to Tangier, boarded another ferry, disembarked at Tarifa & drove to Sevilla, arriving here around 1:30 A.M.
Day 5 photos here.
I don't know what to say to summarize this trip. The food was amazing; the people were friendly. I never imagined that I would visit any part of Africa during my semester abroad, & I certainly never invisioned myself sleeping outdoors in a desert oasis of the Sahara. What I experienced this weekend is absolutely incredible, & I think that's the best means I have to describe it.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
01 December 2008
Feria del Belén
Last week, as I was on my nightly jog, I encountered a huge construction project in the Plaza de San Francisco in front of the ayuntamiento. At the time, it was just another obstacle (in addition to pedestrians, bicis, motos, tranvías, taxis & giant recycling bins) to avoid. But this weekend, I finally got the opportunity to go back & see what all the fuss was about.
Wow. Turns out, the temporary buildings are housing the 15th Feria del Belén de Sevilla. Directly translated, it's the "Fair of Bethlehem," but "belén" also refers to a nativity display, which is what is currently for sale in the plaza. Many homes in the States feature a nativity display as part of their Christmas decoration, but this goes above & beyond anything I've ever seen in the states. The intricate figures were mostly handcrafted by Andalucían artisans, & the displays are far more comprehensive than the traditional 8-10 piece set. (Fun fact: the first nativity was created by Saint Francis, whose Spanish name is San Francisco, for whom the plaza hosting the fair is named.)
From what I've read, Sevillianos put out their belén on December 8, which coincides with the celebration of the Immaculate Conception, & leave it up until February 2. Baby Jesus isn't added until Christmas Eve, & the 3 wisemen don't make their appearance until January 6. Instead of buying everything at once, they add to their displays every year. (If you've ever seen a miniature train village display, I think that's a fair comparison.)
The basic 5-piece set (Mary, Joseph, Jesus, a donkey & an ox) is called el misterio. The stable is called el portal. The add-ons, for lack of a better word, range from los tres reyes (the 3 wisemen) on camel & on foot, el ángel, los pastores y las ovejas (shepherds & sheep) gathered around a fire, to a collection of other assorted townspeople. Spanish tradition also includes the caganer, Catalán for "crapper." This poor figurine, who is hidden in the back somewhere, is carved with his pants pulled down, mid-poop. According to Wikipedia, he is "a reflection of Catalán irreverence & scatological humor" & is frequently depicted in town displays as whichever politican happens to be unpopular that season.
Walking through the Feria, even I, grinch that I am, was struck by the Christmas spirit. The belenes were intricate & beautiful, many including working lights or running water. I love the idea of a family building their belén, visiting the Feria each Christmas season to add to their display. I wish I could bring home the entire Feria, as I was fascinated by the range of the figures -- miniscule to giant, traditional to modern -- to share.
Since that clearly isn't an option, photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Wow. Turns out, the temporary buildings are housing the 15th Feria del Belén de Sevilla. Directly translated, it's the "Fair of Bethlehem," but "belén" also refers to a nativity display, which is what is currently for sale in the plaza. Many homes in the States feature a nativity display as part of their Christmas decoration, but this goes above & beyond anything I've ever seen in the states. The intricate figures were mostly handcrafted by Andalucían artisans, & the displays are far more comprehensive than the traditional 8-10 piece set. (Fun fact: the first nativity was created by Saint Francis, whose Spanish name is San Francisco, for whom the plaza hosting the fair is named.)
From what I've read, Sevillianos put out their belén on December 8, which coincides with the celebration of the Immaculate Conception, & leave it up until February 2. Baby Jesus isn't added until Christmas Eve, & the 3 wisemen don't make their appearance until January 6. Instead of buying everything at once, they add to their displays every year. (If you've ever seen a miniature train village display, I think that's a fair comparison.)
The basic 5-piece set (Mary, Joseph, Jesus, a donkey & an ox) is called el misterio. The stable is called el portal. The add-ons, for lack of a better word, range from los tres reyes (the 3 wisemen) on camel & on foot, el ángel, los pastores y las ovejas (shepherds & sheep) gathered around a fire, to a collection of other assorted townspeople. Spanish tradition also includes the caganer, Catalán for "crapper." This poor figurine, who is hidden in the back somewhere, is carved with his pants pulled down, mid-poop. According to Wikipedia, he is "a reflection of Catalán irreverence & scatological humor" & is frequently depicted in town displays as whichever politican happens to be unpopular that season.
Walking through the Feria, even I, grinch that I am, was struck by the Christmas spirit. The belenes were intricate & beautiful, many including working lights or running water. I love the idea of a family building their belén, visiting the Feria each Christmas season to add to their display. I wish I could bring home the entire Feria, as I was fascinated by the range of the figures -- miniscule to giant, traditional to modern -- to share.
Since that clearly isn't an option, photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
30 November 2008
¡Yo soy tu guía de Sevilla!
This weekend, I had my first & only visitor in Sevilla. In return for her wonderful guided art tour of Vatican City, I showed Shaina (a fellow Carlow University study abroad student) around Sevilla. Among other things, we ate paella, montadiots & churros; toured the inside of the Catedral; wandered the gardens of the Reales Alcázares; relaxed in the tetería where the waiters know me; and window shopped all the finest stores.
For me, it was a wonderful break to avoid the hectic flight/train/bus/taxi/metro frenzy & to be able to revisit the sights of Sevilla. And (of course!) it was great to see a friend from home & to catch up on how the experience is going. I enjoyed showing off my new home & what I've learned of the language & the history. I also took a ton of photos of the inside of the Catedral (which I hadn't seen yet) & the Reales Alcázares (which I also hadn't seen most of). Shaina seemed to have a great time, & I got to play tourist in my temporary hometown.
Photos here & here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
For me, it was a wonderful break to avoid the hectic flight/train/bus/taxi/metro frenzy & to be able to revisit the sights of Sevilla. And (of course!) it was great to see a friend from home & to catch up on how the experience is going. I enjoyed showing off my new home & what I've learned of the language & the history. I also took a ton of photos of the inside of the Catedral (which I hadn't seen yet) & the Reales Alcázares (which I also hadn't seen most of). Shaina seemed to have a great time, & I got to play tourist in my temporary hometown.
Photos here & here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
28 November 2008
El Día de la Acción de Gracias
Or, for those who speak English, "Thanksgiving." So we wouldn't feel quite so alone on this family holiday, CIEE held a dinner for us at a nice restaurant called Los Monos Restaurante. We started off with hors d'oeuvres of cheese, what appeared to be roast beef, & beer or wine. Then we moved to the banquet room for a buffet dinner. They served pork & chicken, boxed mashed potatoes, applesauce, some sort of cold shrimp sauce, cold vegetable bread (think carrots & peas), more wine & champagne. While the food was all very tasty, it had been billed as "Thanksgiving Dinner," & I know that most of us had our hopes up for turkey & stuffing instead of a more traditional Spanish meal. For dessert, we had apple pastry & whipped cream, which was also delicious but wasn't pumpkin pie. Don't think that I am complaining, though; I had a great time & was thankful to be surrounded by new friends. While it's not the Thanksgiving I'm used to, I'd say it was a success.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
23 November 2008
Viaje a Toledo
This weekend, I went with my CIEE interest group (theatre/dance) on a weekend trip. The best part of the deal was that the cost of the trip was included in my tuition, so I only paid for a few meals & souvenirs. We left bright & early Friday morning on our trusty Cortes Ingles charter van. (Unlike the other groups, which drew a bigger crowd simply for their trips to Barcelona, Mallorca or Lisbon, we only had 6 students on our trip).
Our first stop was Consuegra, or more precisely, the hill overlooking Consuegra, where 11 16th century windmills still stand. While I'm pretty sure these aren't the fabled windmills of Cervantes' "Don Quijote," they are still on the Route of Don Quijote. After taking in the scenery, we got back on the bus & finished our drive to Toledo.
At this point, I must admit that writing these historical overviews of Spanish cities has gotten a bit repetitive, & I wouldn't blame you a bit, dear reader, if you've started skipping over those paragraphs. As I'm sure you can guess, Toledo was founded by Romans, overtaken by Visigoths (& made the Catholic heartland of the Visigoth kingdom, in fact), conquered by Muslims (in 711), & finally reclaimed by Catholics (in 1085). Shortly after the last takeover, Toledo was recognized by the Vatican as a seat of the Church in Spain. Like other cities, while Muslims, Jews & Christians coexisted for a time, after the fall of Granada in 1492, all non-Christians were chased out. In 1986, Unesco declared Toledo a monument of world interest. Today, Toledo is known for swords, marzipan & damasquinado (damascene), or the art of inlaying metals in jewelry.
Our first stop in Toledo was, disturbingly enough, the Ancient Instruments of Tortue museum. Next, we visited a museum of Visigoth artifacts (no photos allowed). We took our typicall walk through the estrechas & emerged in front of the cathedral just after dusk, which was gorgeous. We enjoyed a free dinner of tapas & beer, then called it a night in our CIEE-selected hotel, which was much nicer than what we would have chosen for ourselves.
Photos here.
The next day, after a proper continental breakfast, we started off at the Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes. The monastery was built by Fernando & Isabel in the Jewish quarter to establish their power. Next, we visited 2 synagogues. The first, la Sinagoga del Tránsito, was built in 1355 & now houses the Museo Sefardi of Jewish art (no photos allowed). The second, la Sinagoga de Santa María La Blanca, is also characterized by Moorish architecture, & also houses a museum of sorts. To complete our religious trilogy, we next visited la Mezquita de Cristo de la Luz, or the Mosque of Christ, a tiny, square building composed almost entirely of scaffolding. The garden outside, however, did afford a great view of the city beyond the walls.
After the mosque, we walked down the hill to check out the ancient city walls & gates. Having learned from experience, we were all taking note of exactly how far downhill we were traveling, knowing that what goes down must come back up to get to the hotel. Amazingly enough, the city of Toledo has remedied this problem by installing a series of escalators into the hillside. Upon reaching the top of the hill, we had free time to shop. I loved looking at all the intricate jewelry, most of which is made by hand.
Later in the afternoon, we met up again to visit the Catedral (no photos allowed inside). There were a series of hats hanging from the ceiling, which I thought was weird. Turns out, each hat is hanging above a tomb; if the hat falls, it means the deceased's soul has ascended to heaven. We also saw a series of El Greco paintings in the Catedral's collection. (Earlier in the day, we visited "El entierro del Conde de Orgaz," a super-famous El Greco painting depicting the interment of a count.) Then we had free time again to revisit the shops. That evening, we went to the Teatro Rojas for a concert by Pedro Guerra, a famous Spanish singer.
Photos here.
Today, we got an early start on the trip back. We stopped in the morning to visit Almagro, which houses the Museo Nacional del Teatro (no photos allowed). We saw a short performance in the Corral de Comedias, the oldest theatre in Spain, then ate lunch on CIEE at a nice restaurant. Then it was back to the bus to finish the ride home.
Photos here.
While this trip might not have been as spectacular as that of some of the other interest groups (Barcelona, Lisbon, Mallorca), I truly enjoyed the old-town feel of Toledo, whose stone buildings & windy streets made me long to read "Don Quijote." And I always enjoy how CIEE spends my money, treating me to better food & lodging than I'd ever choose for myself. Plus, our small group made our trip less touristy & more personal. I'd even like to go back to Toledo someday, so I'd call this weekend a success.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Our first stop was Consuegra, or more precisely, the hill overlooking Consuegra, where 11 16th century windmills still stand. While I'm pretty sure these aren't the fabled windmills of Cervantes' "Don Quijote," they are still on the Route of Don Quijote. After taking in the scenery, we got back on the bus & finished our drive to Toledo.
At this point, I must admit that writing these historical overviews of Spanish cities has gotten a bit repetitive, & I wouldn't blame you a bit, dear reader, if you've started skipping over those paragraphs. As I'm sure you can guess, Toledo was founded by Romans, overtaken by Visigoths (& made the Catholic heartland of the Visigoth kingdom, in fact), conquered by Muslims (in 711), & finally reclaimed by Catholics (in 1085). Shortly after the last takeover, Toledo was recognized by the Vatican as a seat of the Church in Spain. Like other cities, while Muslims, Jews & Christians coexisted for a time, after the fall of Granada in 1492, all non-Christians were chased out. In 1986, Unesco declared Toledo a monument of world interest. Today, Toledo is known for swords, marzipan & damasquinado (damascene), or the art of inlaying metals in jewelry.
Our first stop in Toledo was, disturbingly enough, the Ancient Instruments of Tortue museum. Next, we visited a museum of Visigoth artifacts (no photos allowed). We took our typicall walk through the estrechas & emerged in front of the cathedral just after dusk, which was gorgeous. We enjoyed a free dinner of tapas & beer, then called it a night in our CIEE-selected hotel, which was much nicer than what we would have chosen for ourselves.
Photos here.
The next day, after a proper continental breakfast, we started off at the Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes. The monastery was built by Fernando & Isabel in the Jewish quarter to establish their power. Next, we visited 2 synagogues. The first, la Sinagoga del Tránsito, was built in 1355 & now houses the Museo Sefardi of Jewish art (no photos allowed). The second, la Sinagoga de Santa María La Blanca, is also characterized by Moorish architecture, & also houses a museum of sorts. To complete our religious trilogy, we next visited la Mezquita de Cristo de la Luz, or the Mosque of Christ, a tiny, square building composed almost entirely of scaffolding. The garden outside, however, did afford a great view of the city beyond the walls.
After the mosque, we walked down the hill to check out the ancient city walls & gates. Having learned from experience, we were all taking note of exactly how far downhill we were traveling, knowing that what goes down must come back up to get to the hotel. Amazingly enough, the city of Toledo has remedied this problem by installing a series of escalators into the hillside. Upon reaching the top of the hill, we had free time to shop. I loved looking at all the intricate jewelry, most of which is made by hand.
Later in the afternoon, we met up again to visit the Catedral (no photos allowed inside). There were a series of hats hanging from the ceiling, which I thought was weird. Turns out, each hat is hanging above a tomb; if the hat falls, it means the deceased's soul has ascended to heaven. We also saw a series of El Greco paintings in the Catedral's collection. (Earlier in the day, we visited "El entierro del Conde de Orgaz," a super-famous El Greco painting depicting the interment of a count.) Then we had free time again to revisit the shops. That evening, we went to the Teatro Rojas for a concert by Pedro Guerra, a famous Spanish singer.
Photos here.
Today, we got an early start on the trip back. We stopped in the morning to visit Almagro, which houses the Museo Nacional del Teatro (no photos allowed). We saw a short performance in the Corral de Comedias, the oldest theatre in Spain, then ate lunch on CIEE at a nice restaurant. Then it was back to the bus to finish the ride home.
Photos here.
While this trip might not have been as spectacular as that of some of the other interest groups (Barcelona, Lisbon, Mallorca), I truly enjoyed the old-town feel of Toledo, whose stone buildings & windy streets made me long to read "Don Quijote." And I always enjoy how CIEE spends my money, treating me to better food & lodging than I'd ever choose for myself. Plus, our small group made our trip less touristy & more personal. I'd even like to go back to Toledo someday, so I'd call this weekend a success.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
16 November 2008
Viaje a Roma
The history of Rome is a topic that I could not even begin to do justice in this short space, but in the interest of an introduction, here are the brief, brief highlights. Romulus became the first king of Rome on 21 April 753 B.C., combining Etruscan, Latin & Sabine settlements. The Roman Republic was founded a few centuries later, in 509 B.C., & remained the major power of the Western world until internal rivalries led to civil war. After the assassination of Julius Caesar, Octavian prevailed as successor & created political stability & artistic achievement, but later rulers left the city in shambles after the Great Fire of A.D. 64. By A.D. 100, Rome had bounded back with a population of 1.5 million & its undisputed claim on Caput Mundi. In 330, Constantine moved his power base to Byzantium, & Rome slid into another decline. In 455, the city was sacked by Vandals, & in 476, the last emperor of the Western Roman Empire was deposed.
Meanwhile, Christianity had been seeping into pagan Roman culture. The underground efforts of apostles Peter & Paul had been spreading the Word since the first century A.D., & Constantine granted the religion offical recognition. In 774, Rome's place as center of the Christian world was secured when Pope Leo III crowned Charlemagne as Holy Roman Emperor.
In the Middle Ages, Rome was again a shambles. In fact, Pope Clement V abandoned the city in 1309 due to fighting, but Pope Gregory XI returned to Rome in 1377. Renaissance Rome, however, brought the leading artists of the 15th & 16th centuries to work on the Sistine Chapel & St. Peter's Basilica. In the early 16th century, Rome was again attacked, this time by Spain's King Carlos V, leaving Rome in need of rebuilding. The 17th century Baroque masters Bernini & Borromini responded to the challenge with churches, fountains & mansions. Rome was again affected by Mussolini in the 20th century, but like many European cities, tourism has done its part to bolster the economy.
This weekend found a classmate & me in Rome. We left early Friday morning, fell asleep somewhere over Spain & awoke somewhere over Italy. Europe is amazing for one's ability to do this. My classmate Linh & I met up with my friend Shaina, Carlow's Roman representative this semester, in the train station. We set off for la Città Vaticano, the world's smallest sovereign state. We bought gelato, the first of many gastronomic delights, & braved the line for la Basilica di San Pietro. The first basilica was built by Constantine, Rome's first Christian emperor, on the spot where St. Peter is said to have been martyred & buried. This basilica, which was consecrated in A.D. 326, fell into disrepair in the millenium that followed. In 1506, serious work began on a new basilica, designed by Bramante as a Greek cross. Construction took 150 years & saw many contributers, but Michelangelo is responsible for the design of the famous dome. At 187 m long, the Basilica is the second-biggest in the world. Lucky for Linh & me, Shaina had already visited the Basilica with her art class, so we had a personal tour guide.
After the Basilica, we visited the Musei Vaticani, again with our personal guide. We loitered behind other tour groups for a while, taking in what information we could, but after a while, we all admitted that we just wanted to rush to the end of the museum -- to the Capella Sistina. Unfortunately, there was no photography allowed in the Sistine Chapel (there were guards alternatively yelling "QUIET!" and "NO FOTO!" to remind us of that), but the frescos were beautiful.
When we left the Sistine Chapel, the sun was already setting. Shaina took us to a restaurant she knew for pizza, the second great food success. Then we visited the Fontana di Trevi by night. The fountain was built in 1723 & named for the "tre vie" (3 roads) that converge at the fountain. The sculpture is of Neptune's chariot being led by a wild & a docile horse, to represent the various moods of the sea. We all threw a coin over our shoulders into the fountain for luck. Shaina walked us back to our hostel, & we called it a night.
Day 1 photos here.
On Saturday, after another hostel "continental breakfast" of stale bread & Coco Crispies, Linh & I headed to the Colosseo. Even after several months in Europe, I was amazed by the number of gypsies surrounding the Colosseum. (At least in Sevilla, the Spanish word for "gypsy" refers to a con artist or a vendor selling merchandise from a dropcloth, a cardboard box table or any other dubious setup. Linh & I were pestered to buy sunglasses, knock-off purses, souvenirs, T-shirts & scarves. We were also approached by "English-speaking" tour guides claiming to have group reservations that would let us skip the lines for an extra 8 Euro.
Linh & I refused all offers & stood our turn in line, which wasn't too bad of a wait. The Colosseum was immense & impressive, but the flocks of tourists were a bit distracting. Here's what I learned from eavesdropping on other people's tours: the Colosseum was inaugurated in A.D. 80 with a great slaughter of animals. Gladiators fought against exotic beasts, including rhinoceri, hippopotamuses, panthers, leopards, bears & ostriches imported from elsewhere in the Roman empire. It is also rumored that the building could be flooded to hold mock sea battles. When the Romn empire fell, the Colosseum was abandoned & fell victim to exotic plants carried to Rome by the imported beasts. In the Middle Ages, the building became a fortress & gained its reputatio nas the symbol of Rome: "while the Colosseum stands, Rome shall stand, butwhen the Colosseum falls, Rome shall fall -- and when rome falls, the world will end." The building has also been used as a quarry for later builders & has been affected by earthquakes, pollution the vibration of the Metro.
Next, Linh & I visited the Palatine & the Roman Forum, both included in the ticket for the Colosseum. It took us a while to find the entrance to the Palatine, but finally, we were surrounded by ancient Roman ruins. The Palatine is where Romulus killed his brother Remus & founded Rome. It was also an aristocratic neighborhood in its time; now it's a popular spot for tourists to bring a picnic lunch. The Roman Forum, originally an Etruscan burial ground, was first developed in the 7th century B.C. It fell into decline after the 4th century B.C. & was known in the middle ages as the campo vaccino, or "cow field." During the Renaissance, the Forum provided inspiration for artists & architects. What hadn't been plundered in the Middle Ages was systematically excavated in the 18th & 19th centuries.
On our way to Piazza Navona, we stopped at a cafe for lunch, where I had lasagne & tiramisu (successes 3 & 4). We found the Piazza & passed some time window shopping in all the souvenir stores & eating more gelato. When it got dark, we decided to walk back toward the hostel, but we misread the map & ended up at the river. Since we could see the dome, we took advantage of our mistake & walked back to the Vatican to see the Basilica by night. It was beautiful & far less crowded than it had been in the day. We took the Metro to the Colosseum to see that lit up as well. The Metro in Rome brings to mind a place where criminals die in action-adventure movies, but we survived the experience & exited the subway directly in front of the Colosseum. Then we found a restaurant for dinner (ravioli with chili powder, success #6) & had some red table wine. This time, we succeeded in finding our hostel & we turned in for the night.
Day 2 photos here.
This morning, we woke up early, ate breakfast & caught a train to the airport. Unfortunately, Vueling only offers 1 flight from Rome to Sevilla daily, so we couldn't spend Sunday in the Eternal City. But it was an amazing trip. The food was delicious, undoubtedly the best I've had in Europe. Even though my relatives aren't from anywhere near Rome, I felt like I got to know my heritage a bit better. I also gained a huge appreciation for what Spanish I know. When we were in Lagos, we stayed with our group, but in Italy, Linh & I depended on other people's knowledge of English. I couldn't ask "How much does this cost?" or "Can we have the check?" or "Where can I find...?" In that respect, I'm thankful to be back in Sevilla. But I know that there's much more to Rome that I haven't seen, & I might just have to go back someday to experience the rest of it.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Meanwhile, Christianity had been seeping into pagan Roman culture. The underground efforts of apostles Peter & Paul had been spreading the Word since the first century A.D., & Constantine granted the religion offical recognition. In 774, Rome's place as center of the Christian world was secured when Pope Leo III crowned Charlemagne as Holy Roman Emperor.
In the Middle Ages, Rome was again a shambles. In fact, Pope Clement V abandoned the city in 1309 due to fighting, but Pope Gregory XI returned to Rome in 1377. Renaissance Rome, however, brought the leading artists of the 15th & 16th centuries to work on the Sistine Chapel & St. Peter's Basilica. In the early 16th century, Rome was again attacked, this time by Spain's King Carlos V, leaving Rome in need of rebuilding. The 17th century Baroque masters Bernini & Borromini responded to the challenge with churches, fountains & mansions. Rome was again affected by Mussolini in the 20th century, but like many European cities, tourism has done its part to bolster the economy.
This weekend found a classmate & me in Rome. We left early Friday morning, fell asleep somewhere over Spain & awoke somewhere over Italy. Europe is amazing for one's ability to do this. My classmate Linh & I met up with my friend Shaina, Carlow's Roman representative this semester, in the train station. We set off for la Città Vaticano, the world's smallest sovereign state. We bought gelato, the first of many gastronomic delights, & braved the line for la Basilica di San Pietro. The first basilica was built by Constantine, Rome's first Christian emperor, on the spot where St. Peter is said to have been martyred & buried. This basilica, which was consecrated in A.D. 326, fell into disrepair in the millenium that followed. In 1506, serious work began on a new basilica, designed by Bramante as a Greek cross. Construction took 150 years & saw many contributers, but Michelangelo is responsible for the design of the famous dome. At 187 m long, the Basilica is the second-biggest in the world. Lucky for Linh & me, Shaina had already visited the Basilica with her art class, so we had a personal tour guide.
After the Basilica, we visited the Musei Vaticani, again with our personal guide. We loitered behind other tour groups for a while, taking in what information we could, but after a while, we all admitted that we just wanted to rush to the end of the museum -- to the Capella Sistina. Unfortunately, there was no photography allowed in the Sistine Chapel (there were guards alternatively yelling "QUIET!" and "NO FOTO!" to remind us of that), but the frescos were beautiful.
When we left the Sistine Chapel, the sun was already setting. Shaina took us to a restaurant she knew for pizza, the second great food success. Then we visited the Fontana di Trevi by night. The fountain was built in 1723 & named for the "tre vie" (3 roads) that converge at the fountain. The sculpture is of Neptune's chariot being led by a wild & a docile horse, to represent the various moods of the sea. We all threw a coin over our shoulders into the fountain for luck. Shaina walked us back to our hostel, & we called it a night.
Day 1 photos here.
On Saturday, after another hostel "continental breakfast" of stale bread & Coco Crispies, Linh & I headed to the Colosseo. Even after several months in Europe, I was amazed by the number of gypsies surrounding the Colosseum. (At least in Sevilla, the Spanish word for "gypsy" refers to a con artist or a vendor selling merchandise from a dropcloth, a cardboard box table or any other dubious setup. Linh & I were pestered to buy sunglasses, knock-off purses, souvenirs, T-shirts & scarves. We were also approached by "English-speaking" tour guides claiming to have group reservations that would let us skip the lines for an extra 8 Euro.
Linh & I refused all offers & stood our turn in line, which wasn't too bad of a wait. The Colosseum was immense & impressive, but the flocks of tourists were a bit distracting. Here's what I learned from eavesdropping on other people's tours: the Colosseum was inaugurated in A.D. 80 with a great slaughter of animals. Gladiators fought against exotic beasts, including rhinoceri, hippopotamuses, panthers, leopards, bears & ostriches imported from elsewhere in the Roman empire. It is also rumored that the building could be flooded to hold mock sea battles. When the Romn empire fell, the Colosseum was abandoned & fell victim to exotic plants carried to Rome by the imported beasts. In the Middle Ages, the building became a fortress & gained its reputatio nas the symbol of Rome: "while the Colosseum stands, Rome shall stand, butwhen the Colosseum falls, Rome shall fall -- and when rome falls, the world will end." The building has also been used as a quarry for later builders & has been affected by earthquakes, pollution the vibration of the Metro.
Next, Linh & I visited the Palatine & the Roman Forum, both included in the ticket for the Colosseum. It took us a while to find the entrance to the Palatine, but finally, we were surrounded by ancient Roman ruins. The Palatine is where Romulus killed his brother Remus & founded Rome. It was also an aristocratic neighborhood in its time; now it's a popular spot for tourists to bring a picnic lunch. The Roman Forum, originally an Etruscan burial ground, was first developed in the 7th century B.C. It fell into decline after the 4th century B.C. & was known in the middle ages as the campo vaccino, or "cow field." During the Renaissance, the Forum provided inspiration for artists & architects. What hadn't been plundered in the Middle Ages was systematically excavated in the 18th & 19th centuries.
On our way to Piazza Navona, we stopped at a cafe for lunch, where I had lasagne & tiramisu (successes 3 & 4). We found the Piazza & passed some time window shopping in all the souvenir stores & eating more gelato. When it got dark, we decided to walk back toward the hostel, but we misread the map & ended up at the river. Since we could see the dome, we took advantage of our mistake & walked back to the Vatican to see the Basilica by night. It was beautiful & far less crowded than it had been in the day. We took the Metro to the Colosseum to see that lit up as well. The Metro in Rome brings to mind a place where criminals die in action-adventure movies, but we survived the experience & exited the subway directly in front of the Colosseum. Then we found a restaurant for dinner (ravioli with chili powder, success #6) & had some red table wine. This time, we succeeded in finding our hostel & we turned in for the night.
Day 2 photos here.
This morning, we woke up early, ate breakfast & caught a train to the airport. Unfortunately, Vueling only offers 1 flight from Rome to Sevilla daily, so we couldn't spend Sunday in the Eternal City. But it was an amazing trip. The food was delicious, undoubtedly the best I've had in Europe. Even though my relatives aren't from anywhere near Rome, I felt like I got to know my heritage a bit better. I also gained a huge appreciation for what Spanish I know. When we were in Lagos, we stayed with our group, but in Italy, Linh & I depended on other people's knowledge of English. I couldn't ask "How much does this cost?" or "Can we have the check?" or "Where can I find...?" In that respect, I'm thankful to be back in Sevilla. But I know that there's much more to Rome that I haven't seen, & I might just have to go back someday to experience the rest of it.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
09 November 2008
Excursión a Córdoba
Córdoba was founded by the Romans in 152 B.C. & remained under their rule until the Muslims invaded in A.D. 711 & claimed Córdoba as the Islamic capital of the Iberian Peninsula. Under Muslim rule, especially that of Abd ar-Rahman III (912-61). During his rule, Córdoba was the biggest city in Western Europe, with mosques, libraries, aqueducts universities & observatories. The city also hosted leather, metal, textiles & glazed tile artists & towas tolerant of Jews & Christians.
Toward the end of the 10th century, the fearsome general Al-Mansour made over 50 forays into Christian Spain within a span of 20 years. After his death, Berber troups terrorized Córdoba, leading to its decline. The city was captured by a Christian king in 1236, after which time it began to shrink in importance. Fortunately, the perserverance of Córdoba's intellectual tradition & the arrival of industry in the late 19th century helped to preserve the city.
Today, I took a day trip with CIEE to Córdoba. On the way there, we stopped in Montilla. This little town contains Alvear, which CIEE describes as a "bodega" but is really a vineyard. We took a brief tour of the facility, which was followed by a taste-test of 3 wines. Only in Europe would your school take you to a wine tasting at 11 A.M...
After a few stumbles from some of the students, we all boarded the bus to Córdoba. When we arrived, we immediately had free time to get lunch & souvenirs. I walked to the Puente Romano ("Roman Bridge") to check it out, but it was somewhat of a letdown after the bridge we saw yesterday in Ronda. Then our group took a guided walk through la Judería, one of the old neighborhoods of Córdoba. Finally, we toured the Mezquita, or mosque, which was built in 785 on the grounds of a Visigoth church. The building, which incorporates 856 repurposed Visigoth & Roman columns, also houses a Catholic church built after the Christians conquered the city. After the tour, we had a bit more free time, which most of us used to buy a snack at Burger King, then it was back to Sevilla.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Toward the end of the 10th century, the fearsome general Al-Mansour made over 50 forays into Christian Spain within a span of 20 years. After his death, Berber troups terrorized Córdoba, leading to its decline. The city was captured by a Christian king in 1236, after which time it began to shrink in importance. Fortunately, the perserverance of Córdoba's intellectual tradition & the arrival of industry in the late 19th century helped to preserve the city.
Today, I took a day trip with CIEE to Córdoba. On the way there, we stopped in Montilla. This little town contains Alvear, which CIEE describes as a "bodega" but is really a vineyard. We took a brief tour of the facility, which was followed by a taste-test of 3 wines. Only in Europe would your school take you to a wine tasting at 11 A.M...
After a few stumbles from some of the students, we all boarded the bus to Córdoba. When we arrived, we immediately had free time to get lunch & souvenirs. I walked to the Puente Romano ("Roman Bridge") to check it out, but it was somewhat of a letdown after the bridge we saw yesterday in Ronda. Then our group took a guided walk through la Judería, one of the old neighborhoods of Córdoba. Finally, we toured the Mezquita, or mosque, which was built in 785 on the grounds of a Visigoth church. The building, which incorporates 856 repurposed Visigoth & Roman columns, also houses a Catholic church built after the Christians conquered the city. After the tour, we had a bit more free time, which most of us used to buy a snack at Burger King, then it was back to Sevilla.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
08 November 2008
Excursión a Ronda
Ronda is known as one of Spain's "pueblos blancos," or "white towns" for its whitewashed buildings. It is perched on the steep El Tajo canyon, which was carved by the Rio Guadalevín & now divides the town in two. Although the city was first settled by Celts, the influence of Ronda's past Roman & Muslim inhabitants are most visible in the city's architecture. It wasn't until 1485 that the Catholics took control of the town. Today, visitors come to Ronda for the panoramic views of the 3 bridges that span the gorge & the buildings that grasp onto the edge of the cliffs.
Some friends & I decided to take a day trip to see Ronda for ourselves. We caugt a bus this morning & were in Ronda by a bit after noon. The mountain town was charming from our first glimpse at the cliffside buildings. As we crossed the Puente Nuevo & descended to get a better look at the 120 m "New Bridge," the architectural feat became even more impessive. I have never seen the Grand Canyon, but the river cutting Ronda in two achieves a similar effect. While the others were resting, I wandered off along a footpath & found some ruins hidden in the brush. After the hike back up the mountain, we walked to the other 2 bridges, one Roman & one Muslim, which were less massive but also much older than the 18th century "New" Bridge. The last of our time was, of course, spent wandering in & out of shops, looking at souvenirs before we boarded the bus back to Sevilla.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Some friends & I decided to take a day trip to see Ronda for ourselves. We caugt a bus this morning & were in Ronda by a bit after noon. The mountain town was charming from our first glimpse at the cliffside buildings. As we crossed the Puente Nuevo & descended to get a better look at the 120 m "New Bridge," the architectural feat became even more impessive. I have never seen the Grand Canyon, but the river cutting Ronda in two achieves a similar effect. While the others were resting, I wandered off along a footpath & found some ruins hidden in the brush. After the hike back up the mountain, we walked to the other 2 bridges, one Roman & one Muslim, which were less massive but also much older than the 18th century "New" Bridge. The last of our time was, of course, spent wandering in & out of shops, looking at souvenirs before we boarded the bus back to Sevilla.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
03 November 2008
Una distracción
Because I was feeling down today, I decided to distract myself. I had been wanting to check out the muralla, or ancient city wall, still lingering along a main road by my homestay. It was the Romans who first fortified Sevilla, but the walls remaining today date from the Moorish rule of the 12th century. If you study the design, you can see that the towers reflect the architecture of the Torre del Oro, which is one of the many watchtowers that were once part of the structure.
I wandered along the Calle de Maria Auxiliadora until I found the wall, then followed it to the far end, where it formed a yellow arch that was obviously not original to the architecture. Then I doubled back to my homestay, keeping parallel to the muralla as I walked. I wondered for the millionth time at how Spain simply accepts structures like the muralla & builds around them as the centuries pass, a kind of architectural "live & let live." While this exercise didn't cure me of feeling down, it did help me to reconnect with Sevilla, something I desperately needed today.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
I wandered along the Calle de Maria Auxiliadora until I found the wall, then followed it to the far end, where it formed a yellow arch that was obviously not original to the architecture. Then I doubled back to my homestay, keeping parallel to the muralla as I walked. I wondered for the millionth time at how Spain simply accepts structures like the muralla & builds around them as the centuries pass, a kind of architectural "live & let live." While this exercise didn't cure me of feeling down, it did help me to reconnect with Sevilla, something I desperately needed today.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
02 November 2008
Plaza de España en el cine...
Just a postscript on the Plaza de España right here in Seville: it was used in "Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones." You can see for yourself in this YouTube video & compare to my photos: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edhLosefD0Q. I thought it all seemed familiar...
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Viaje a Barcelona (y visita con una amiga!)
Barcelona is thought to have been founded b ythe Carthaginians around 230 B.C. Since then, it has been occupied by the Romans, Muslims & Franks, the last of whom founded the house of the Counts of Barcelona in A.D. 878. Eventually, Catalonia, the kingdom in which Barcelona is located, launched its own fleet, & sea trade flourished & expanded as Malta, Athens, Corsica, Sardinia & Naples fell under Catalan dominance between the 13th & 15th centuries. Catalonia continued to develop its own culture & language separate from the rest of Spain.
When Ferdinand rose to power in 1479 & later married Isabel, Catalonia lost power. Later, Barcelona backed the wrong side in the War of the Spanish succession, & consequently, the writing & teaching of Catalan were banned. The late 19th century brought the Modernista movement, lavish buildings by artists like Antoni Gaudi, & the revival of Catalan language & culture. By the turn of the 20th century, Barcelona was Spain's hotbed of avant-garde art. In the 1930s, when Spain was struggling to find leadership, Catalonia declared itself a republic & founded a new regional government, but the city fell to Franco in 1939. After Franco's death, a new Spanish constitution created the autonomous community of Catalunya, with Barcelona as its capital. The city was further redeveloped to host the 1992 Olympics, after which the impetus to improve Barcelona's shabbier areas has not let up.
This weekend, I traveled to Barcelona to visit a friend from the States & to see the sights. When I landed in the airport, the first thing I noticed were the signs. The first language was neither Spanish nor English; it was Catalan. I knew I hadn't left the country, but I may as well have. I could understand the hybrid of Spanish & French hanging before me, but I certainly couldn't speak it. I took a shuttle bus to Placa Catalunya, where I encountered my second challenge of the weekend: the rain. I hadn't seen so much rain anywhere in Europe, Northern Ireland included, & it seriously hindered my ability to take way more photographs than are necessary. I stood under some trees in the Placa & watched the flock of pigeons, who didn't mind the downpour, as I waited for Rachael to meet me. She helped me buy a Metro pass, & we went to her apartment to drop off my stuff. Then, we braved the rain long enough for her to show me a few Modernist buildings & the Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's still-under-construction masterpiece. When I realized it was raining too hard to even take pictures, we retreated to the apartment again. That evening, we went to the local China Bazar to buy cheap costumes & to the Indian supermarket for candy, & we celebrated Halloween with some of her friends.
Day 1 photos here.
Saturday, we slept in, which is something I'm not used to on my weekend trips. But it was wonderful to just relax a bit instead of running around trying to see everything. In the afternoon, we headed to Park Güell, which Gaudi was commissioned to build as a miniature garden city in 1900. The project was abandoned, but the landscaped gardens & several completed buildings remain on the mountain a century later. Next, we headed to Port Olímpic, where the water events of the '92 Olympics were held. Once we had defined the borders of Barcelona, we wandered toward the Torre Agbar, a giant cucumber-shaped building that is billed as the most visible landmark in the city. Then we headed back to the apartment, where Rachael cooked dinner & we spent the evening relaxing.
Day 2 photos here.
Sunday, I gave Rachael a break from her host duties & toured a bit on my own. I bought a day ticket for the overpriced Barcelona Bus Turístic, a hop-on/hop-off bus tour company, & embarked on the Blue Line. I braved the rain to visit the train station, the Palau Real & some of the Olympic facilities before I ran out of time. While I enjoyed sightseeing, the bus was actually a bigger hassle than I'd imagined. The audio commentary didn't announce the stops until the driver was braking, & the only button to request the stop was located by the exit doors. And since it was raining all day, few people actually wanted to leave the dry bus, so I had to wait for the second or third bus to pass by before I could find one with an empty seat. I'm glad I did the tour -- just seeing the Olympic stadium was amazing -- but there's still a lot of Barcelona I haven't seen. My final bus stop was near Las Ramblas, from which I walked to the Metro & rode back to the apartment to get my things. Rachael & I had lunch together, & then it was time to catch a bus to the airport. It was really nice to see a friend in this foreign place, but it was difficult for me to say goodbye & come back to Sevilla; it was the first time I felt like I was leaving something behind instead of heading toward "home."
Day 3 photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
When Ferdinand rose to power in 1479 & later married Isabel, Catalonia lost power. Later, Barcelona backed the wrong side in the War of the Spanish succession, & consequently, the writing & teaching of Catalan were banned. The late 19th century brought the Modernista movement, lavish buildings by artists like Antoni Gaudi, & the revival of Catalan language & culture. By the turn of the 20th century, Barcelona was Spain's hotbed of avant-garde art. In the 1930s, when Spain was struggling to find leadership, Catalonia declared itself a republic & founded a new regional government, but the city fell to Franco in 1939. After Franco's death, a new Spanish constitution created the autonomous community of Catalunya, with Barcelona as its capital. The city was further redeveloped to host the 1992 Olympics, after which the impetus to improve Barcelona's shabbier areas has not let up.
This weekend, I traveled to Barcelona to visit a friend from the States & to see the sights. When I landed in the airport, the first thing I noticed were the signs. The first language was neither Spanish nor English; it was Catalan. I knew I hadn't left the country, but I may as well have. I could understand the hybrid of Spanish & French hanging before me, but I certainly couldn't speak it. I took a shuttle bus to Placa Catalunya, where I encountered my second challenge of the weekend: the rain. I hadn't seen so much rain anywhere in Europe, Northern Ireland included, & it seriously hindered my ability to take way more photographs than are necessary. I stood under some trees in the Placa & watched the flock of pigeons, who didn't mind the downpour, as I waited for Rachael to meet me. She helped me buy a Metro pass, & we went to her apartment to drop off my stuff. Then, we braved the rain long enough for her to show me a few Modernist buildings & the Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's still-under-construction masterpiece. When I realized it was raining too hard to even take pictures, we retreated to the apartment again. That evening, we went to the local China Bazar to buy cheap costumes & to the Indian supermarket for candy, & we celebrated Halloween with some of her friends.
Day 1 photos here.
Saturday, we slept in, which is something I'm not used to on my weekend trips. But it was wonderful to just relax a bit instead of running around trying to see everything. In the afternoon, we headed to Park Güell, which Gaudi was commissioned to build as a miniature garden city in 1900. The project was abandoned, but the landscaped gardens & several completed buildings remain on the mountain a century later. Next, we headed to Port Olímpic, where the water events of the '92 Olympics were held. Once we had defined the borders of Barcelona, we wandered toward the Torre Agbar, a giant cucumber-shaped building that is billed as the most visible landmark in the city. Then we headed back to the apartment, where Rachael cooked dinner & we spent the evening relaxing.
Day 2 photos here.
Sunday, I gave Rachael a break from her host duties & toured a bit on my own. I bought a day ticket for the overpriced Barcelona Bus Turístic, a hop-on/hop-off bus tour company, & embarked on the Blue Line. I braved the rain to visit the train station, the Palau Real & some of the Olympic facilities before I ran out of time. While I enjoyed sightseeing, the bus was actually a bigger hassle than I'd imagined. The audio commentary didn't announce the stops until the driver was braking, & the only button to request the stop was located by the exit doors. And since it was raining all day, few people actually wanted to leave the dry bus, so I had to wait for the second or third bus to pass by before I could find one with an empty seat. I'm glad I did the tour -- just seeing the Olympic stadium was amazing -- but there's still a lot of Barcelona I haven't seen. My final bus stop was near Las Ramblas, from which I walked to the Metro & rode back to the apartment to get my things. Rachael & I had lunch together, & then it was time to catch a bus to the airport. It was really nice to see a friend in this foreign place, but it was difficult for me to say goodbye & come back to Sevilla; it was the first time I felt like I was leaving something behind instead of heading toward "home."
Day 3 photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
26 October 2008
Viaje a Granada
In A.D. 711, the conquering Muslims combined forces with the Jewish community to overtake the city of Granada from the Visigoths. Known as Garnata al Jahud, the takeover lent its name to Granada, which is also the Spanish word for "pomegranate." The city became a refuge for Muslims in the 13th century, when Córdoba & Sevilla fell to Christian forces. During this time, Granada flourished with traders & artisans, becoming one of the richest cities in medieval Europe. In the 15th century, however, the economy began to slow, & a rivalry broke out over the royal succession. Christian armies, who were still working to reconquer Spain, took advantage of these misfortunes, laying seige to Granada in 1491. The next year, on 2 January 1492, King Fernando & Queen Isabel entered Granada ceremonially in Muslim dress; the last Muslim city of Spain had fallen to the Catholic Monarchs. The religious persecution that followed destroyed what remained of Granada's talented artisan culture, leading the city into a decline that lasted until the 1830s. Finally, interest in the Romantic movement sparked the restoration of Granada's Islamic heritage & the arrival of tourism. Unfortunately, the city suffered another setback in the 20th century during the Spanish civil war, when 4000 Granadans, including Frederico García Lorca, were killed for entertaining left or liberal connections. Today, Granada's most famous sight is the Alhambra, a hilltop palace/fortress conplex built by the Muslims & embellished over several centuries.
Saturday morning, I left with CIEE, my study abroad program, for Granada. After 2 weeks of self-planned & self-guided visits, it was nice to know the only thing I had to worry about was not missing the bus. After an uneventful 3-hour trip, we checked into our hotel, another nice change from inexpensive hostels. I roomed with a friend from CIEE & a Seville native along to socialize, which challenged me to speak Spanish the entire time. After lunch, we were escorted to the Alhambra, where we walked through the lush gardens & ornate palaces. Everything was absolutely beautiful & so different from the Christian-influenced architecture I have become accustomed to seeing. Then we walked into the city for tea & pastries in a teteria, which smelled of incense & was decorated with tapestries.
After the tour, we had free time to explore the city. My friends & I chose to shop, & we wandered the narrow streets full of little stores. Granada has an atmosphere that's a cross between hippe, Arabic & Moroccan; handmade jewelry hung from pegboards in the streets, & handstitched clothing & tapestries shifted in the breeze. Inside the dimly lit alcoves of the shops were rows of teacups, wooden boxes with geometric patterns, rainbow displays of hookahs & towering piles of handstitched mantles & pillowcases. The shop owners busied themselves in providing mirrors to those looking at earrings or unfolding numerous tapestries to point out the quality workmanship. I had my first opportunity to haggle & managed to lower the prices on almost all of my souvenirs. We visited the teteria again after dinner; from our corner seats, we relaxed & soaked in the ambiance of Granada.
Day 1 photos here & here.
The next day, we ate breakfast in the hotel then left with our guides for the twisting streets of el Albaicín, the oldest neighborhood in Granada. We emerged at a hilltop overlook from which we could see la Alhambra. In the little plaza, a half-dozen vendors had laid out handmade leather & metal jewelry & handpainted pendants & postcards. After the photo op, we walked to la Capilla Real, where Ferdinand & Isabel are interred. Like the Catedral in Sevilla, the Capilla Real is surrounded by gypsies that make their living tricking tourists; they offer a sprig to passerby, & those who accept are blessed & promptly asked to pay for the plant they're now holding. Once we passed the gypsies, though, we could admire the elaborate interior of the Capilla Real. Afterwards, we had more free time, & my friends & I wandered the shops again until it was time to find the hotel for lunch. We ate & boarded the bus for a quiet ride home.
Day 2 photos here.
This trip to Granada is definitely one of my favorite trips so far. (Then again, I've thoroughly enjoyed every trip so far.) I wouldn't have minded spending a few more days wandering Granada without a guide.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Saturday morning, I left with CIEE, my study abroad program, for Granada. After 2 weeks of self-planned & self-guided visits, it was nice to know the only thing I had to worry about was not missing the bus. After an uneventful 3-hour trip, we checked into our hotel, another nice change from inexpensive hostels. I roomed with a friend from CIEE & a Seville native along to socialize, which challenged me to speak Spanish the entire time. After lunch, we were escorted to the Alhambra, where we walked through the lush gardens & ornate palaces. Everything was absolutely beautiful & so different from the Christian-influenced architecture I have become accustomed to seeing. Then we walked into the city for tea & pastries in a teteria, which smelled of incense & was decorated with tapestries.
After the tour, we had free time to explore the city. My friends & I chose to shop, & we wandered the narrow streets full of little stores. Granada has an atmosphere that's a cross between hippe, Arabic & Moroccan; handmade jewelry hung from pegboards in the streets, & handstitched clothing & tapestries shifted in the breeze. Inside the dimly lit alcoves of the shops were rows of teacups, wooden boxes with geometric patterns, rainbow displays of hookahs & towering piles of handstitched mantles & pillowcases. The shop owners busied themselves in providing mirrors to those looking at earrings or unfolding numerous tapestries to point out the quality workmanship. I had my first opportunity to haggle & managed to lower the prices on almost all of my souvenirs. We visited the teteria again after dinner; from our corner seats, we relaxed & soaked in the ambiance of Granada.
Day 1 photos here & here.
The next day, we ate breakfast in the hotel then left with our guides for the twisting streets of el Albaicín, the oldest neighborhood in Granada. We emerged at a hilltop overlook from which we could see la Alhambra. In the little plaza, a half-dozen vendors had laid out handmade leather & metal jewelry & handpainted pendants & postcards. After the photo op, we walked to la Capilla Real, where Ferdinand & Isabel are interred. Like the Catedral in Sevilla, the Capilla Real is surrounded by gypsies that make their living tricking tourists; they offer a sprig to passerby, & those who accept are blessed & promptly asked to pay for the plant they're now holding. Once we passed the gypsies, though, we could admire the elaborate interior of the Capilla Real. Afterwards, we had more free time, & my friends & I wandered the shops again until it was time to find the hotel for lunch. We ate & boarded the bus for a quiet ride home.
Day 2 photos here.
This trip to Granada is definitely one of my favorite trips so far. (Then again, I've thoroughly enjoyed every trip so far.) I wouldn't have minded spending a few more days wandering Granada without a guide.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Damos un paseo...
This Friday marked my first completely free day in Sevilla in weeks. I didn't have any classes to attend, & since my study abroad program had arranged a trip for Saturday & Sunday, I wasn't traveling. I spent this free time wandering around the city a bit, which had some interesting results. First, we searched for the "Roman ruins" of Sevilla, which turned out to be 3 pillars tucked away between two houses on a side street. Next, we searched for the plaque commemorating Susona, a Jewish girl who fell in love with a Christian soldier in 14th century Sevilla. When she overheard her father plotting to attack the Christians, the young girl warned her lover, who responded by murdering the girl's father. Grief-stricken, Susona requested in her will that her skull be hung above the doorway of her house. After getting a bit lost on the narrow labyrinthine streets, or estrechas, we finally found the 2 plaques dedicated to the legend. After our brief foray into tourism, we walked toward the University to visit the Festival de las Naciones, whose booths offered food, toys, jewelry & knick-knacks from around the world.
That evening, I had RSVPed to attend a play at the Teatro Central with my theatre interest group. Looking at the map, I imagined a pleasant stroll along the river to the theatre, & that's exactly how it began. I reached the Puente de Isabel II, the bridge my friends & I cross to get to the popular American bars, just as the sun was setting. It was beautiful, & of course I had my camera with me. As night settled in, however, the atmosphere along the riverbank changed; groups of teenagers dressed in black appeared out of nowhere with boom boxes & hookahs, & there was a distinct smell of marijuana floating in the air. As my 3 mile walk drew to a close & I crossed the bridge to the theatre, I was a bit relieved to leave the river bank behind me.
All in all, it was a pleasant & relaxed Friday in Sevilla, & an enjoyable break from the hustle of leaving the city early Friday morning for the normal weekend getaway.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
That evening, I had RSVPed to attend a play at the Teatro Central with my theatre interest group. Looking at the map, I imagined a pleasant stroll along the river to the theatre, & that's exactly how it began. I reached the Puente de Isabel II, the bridge my friends & I cross to get to the popular American bars, just as the sun was setting. It was beautiful, & of course I had my camera with me. As night settled in, however, the atmosphere along the riverbank changed; groups of teenagers dressed in black appeared out of nowhere with boom boxes & hookahs, & there was a distinct smell of marijuana floating in the air. As my 3 mile walk drew to a close & I crossed the bridge to the theatre, I was a bit relieved to leave the river bank behind me.
All in all, it was a pleasant & relaxed Friday in Sevilla, & an enjoyable break from the hustle of leaving the city early Friday morning for the normal weekend getaway.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
20 October 2008
Viaje a Madrid (con una excursión a Segovia)
In 80 B.C., the Celtic settlement of Segobriga was occupied by the Romans. From there, it went on to become an important town of Roman Hispania. The town saw fighting between Christians & the invading Muslims until the latter were evicted in A.D. 1085. The city triumphed in backing the future queen Isabel in 1474 but chose the wrong side in the War of the Communities in 1520. After sliding into several centuries of obscurity, Segovia began to recover in the 1960s, when tourism helped to regenerate the town. Today, Segovia is known for its acueducto romano, as well as its catedral & alcázar.
Madrid was first established by Muslims in A.D. 854. From the Arabic word for "water channel," Madrid's location in the center of the peninsula led to the city changing hands between Muslims, Visigoths & Christians. In 1085, Christian king Alfonso VI conquered Madrid's mosque & reconfigured it into the chuch of the Virgin of Almudena. For a while, Jews, Muslims & Christians were allowed to practice their own religions in Madrid, but the Spanish Inquisition ended the harmony & only allowed Christians to practice. In 1561, the seat of the court was moved to Madrid, effectively making it the captial of Spain. During the 16th & 17th centuries, the city enjoyed the Siglo de Oro, or Golden Century, but still depended economically on the patronage of the court iteself. In the 20th century, Madrid was hit especially hard by the Spanish Civil War, but after Franco's death, the capital became an icon for the new Spain & finally enjoyed the prosperity it needed to establish itself as the center of the Iberian peninsula.
On Friday, a friend & I took an overnight (1:00 A.M. - 7:00 A.M.) bus from Sevilla to Madrid. From there, we took the Metro across town & hopped another bus to Segovia. We spent the rest of the morning & most of the afternoon on a self-guided tour of Segovia's 3 main attractions: the acueducto, the Catedral & the Alcázar. I was amazed how extensive the acueducto is, & that houses & businesses have simply sprung up on either side of the structure over the millennia. The Catedral was particularly striking, but like most of Spain's religious buildings, only truly finished on one side. The Alcázar was also beautiful. We took a self-guided tour through the castle, which was home to swords, suits of armour, a spectacular view of the city, & (of course) some creepy artwork on the walls. We paid extra to climb to the top of the tower, which had an extraordinary view of the Catedral & the surrounding area. Then we grabbed some lunch & hopped a bus back to Madrid. After five weeks, I'm finally getting used to how easy it is to travel in Spain. Once in Madrid, we tried to find a few sights & succeeded in locating the Templo de Debod, the Catedral & the Palacio Real. Afterwards, we headed to our hostal, which was nice enough, & called it a night.
Day 1 photos here & here.
The next day, we enjoyed our hostal's complimentary "continental breakfast" -- which consisted of cereal, bread & butter, milk & tea -- then met up with SANDEMANs New Europe Tours, a free, 3 1/2 hour walking tour around the city. (My friend & I knew that Sevilla had changed us when we didn't even bat an eye at the concept of walking around for 3 1/2 hours.) Our tour guide was excellent. She was an American that studied in Madrid for a semester of college then decided she didn't want to return to the States. For the duration of the tour, she was informative, entertaining & enthusiastic about everything we saw. She led us through plazas, past churches & palaces, & even to the doorsteps of the birthplaces of a few famous writers. For lunch, she took us to get tapas... at Cervezería 100 Montaditos, a cheap chain restaurant we frequent in Sevilla. After the tour, we wandered to the Museo del Prado & the Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, where I was reminded how little appreciation I have for art. When I realized I was studying what my guidebook described as "subtle yet strategically placed lighting" instead of the works themselves, I realized that an art museum is not the place for me. I did, however, enjoy seeing a few of the more famous works in person. After the museums, we again called it a night & began to walk back to our hostal. On the way, we were able to witness a group of men running from the police, carrying the sacks of bootleg DVDs & knockoff Louis Vuitton wallets they had been peddling on the sidewalk.
Day 2 photos here.
Sunday, we woke up early to fully enjoy the spread of our continental breakfast. Then we headed to El Rastro, a huge open-air flea market that sets up every Sunday on the sidewalks of Madrid. There were booths with everything from t-shirts & parachute pants (which are in style in Spain, by the way) to extension cords and multitools. We wandered for a few hours, & although I enjoyed the shopping, I had to fight the urge to flee from the solidly packed streets. After the flea market, we stopped for lunch. Feeling like we had seen the sights already, we headed to the bus station a bit early & relaxed until our 6:00 P.M. departure, another weekend trip successfully completed.
Day 3 photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Madrid was first established by Muslims in A.D. 854. From the Arabic word for "water channel," Madrid's location in the center of the peninsula led to the city changing hands between Muslims, Visigoths & Christians. In 1085, Christian king Alfonso VI conquered Madrid's mosque & reconfigured it into the chuch of the Virgin of Almudena. For a while, Jews, Muslims & Christians were allowed to practice their own religions in Madrid, but the Spanish Inquisition ended the harmony & only allowed Christians to practice. In 1561, the seat of the court was moved to Madrid, effectively making it the captial of Spain. During the 16th & 17th centuries, the city enjoyed the Siglo de Oro, or Golden Century, but still depended economically on the patronage of the court iteself. In the 20th century, Madrid was hit especially hard by the Spanish Civil War, but after Franco's death, the capital became an icon for the new Spain & finally enjoyed the prosperity it needed to establish itself as the center of the Iberian peninsula.
On Friday, a friend & I took an overnight (1:00 A.M. - 7:00 A.M.) bus from Sevilla to Madrid. From there, we took the Metro across town & hopped another bus to Segovia. We spent the rest of the morning & most of the afternoon on a self-guided tour of Segovia's 3 main attractions: the acueducto, the Catedral & the Alcázar. I was amazed how extensive the acueducto is, & that houses & businesses have simply sprung up on either side of the structure over the millennia. The Catedral was particularly striking, but like most of Spain's religious buildings, only truly finished on one side. The Alcázar was also beautiful. We took a self-guided tour through the castle, which was home to swords, suits of armour, a spectacular view of the city, & (of course) some creepy artwork on the walls. We paid extra to climb to the top of the tower, which had an extraordinary view of the Catedral & the surrounding area. Then we grabbed some lunch & hopped a bus back to Madrid. After five weeks, I'm finally getting used to how easy it is to travel in Spain. Once in Madrid, we tried to find a few sights & succeeded in locating the Templo de Debod, the Catedral & the Palacio Real. Afterwards, we headed to our hostal, which was nice enough, & called it a night.
Day 1 photos here & here.
The next day, we enjoyed our hostal's complimentary "continental breakfast" -- which consisted of cereal, bread & butter, milk & tea -- then met up with SANDEMANs New Europe Tours, a free, 3 1/2 hour walking tour around the city. (My friend & I knew that Sevilla had changed us when we didn't even bat an eye at the concept of walking around for 3 1/2 hours.) Our tour guide was excellent. She was an American that studied in Madrid for a semester of college then decided she didn't want to return to the States. For the duration of the tour, she was informative, entertaining & enthusiastic about everything we saw. She led us through plazas, past churches & palaces, & even to the doorsteps of the birthplaces of a few famous writers. For lunch, she took us to get tapas... at Cervezería 100 Montaditos, a cheap chain restaurant we frequent in Sevilla. After the tour, we wandered to the Museo del Prado & the Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, where I was reminded how little appreciation I have for art. When I realized I was studying what my guidebook described as "subtle yet strategically placed lighting" instead of the works themselves, I realized that an art museum is not the place for me. I did, however, enjoy seeing a few of the more famous works in person. After the museums, we again called it a night & began to walk back to our hostal. On the way, we were able to witness a group of men running from the police, carrying the sacks of bootleg DVDs & knockoff Louis Vuitton wallets they had been peddling on the sidewalk.
Day 2 photos here.
Sunday, we woke up early to fully enjoy the spread of our continental breakfast. Then we headed to El Rastro, a huge open-air flea market that sets up every Sunday on the sidewalks of Madrid. There were booths with everything from t-shirts & parachute pants (which are in style in Spain, by the way) to extension cords and multitools. We wandered for a few hours, & although I enjoyed the shopping, I had to fight the urge to flee from the solidly packed streets. After the flea market, we stopped for lunch. Feeling like we had seen the sights already, we headed to the bus station a bit early & relaxed until our 6:00 P.M. departure, another weekend trip successfully completed.
Day 3 photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
13 October 2008
Viaje a Belfast, Northern Ireland (y Málaga, tambén)
When I post about a place I've visited, I like to being with a bit of history. To attempt to broach the topic of Northern Ireland's vast history in this brief space, however, would be overly ambitious. So, in this case, faithful reader, I'm going to let you down & suggest that you do a bit of quick Googling if you'd like more information.
The city of Belfast is perhaps most famous for its ranking alongside Beirut, Baghdad & Bosnia as one of the four "B's for travelers to avoid. The troubles, which descended on the country in the late 1960s, dealt Belfast a blow from which it is still striving to recover; the so-called Peace line still stands imposingly dividing Catholic & Protestant neighborhoods, like a Berlin Wall that never fell. Numerous murals painted on commercial & resedential properties alike pay tribute to heroes, martyrs innocent victims on both sides of the struggle. The government is working to redevelop edifices whose walls still reverberate with the voilent energy of the past decades. At the same time, the city is perhaps the most beautiful I've ever seen, bordered on the east by the docks where the "Titanic" was built & on the west by green mountains.
Four friends & I left Sevilla for Málaga at 6:50 Friday morning via train. As the first day of our trip dawned, we watched little white villages pass our windows. The yellow lights shone from their places nestled into the mountainside. We passed farms with fields of little trees planted in diagonal lines like pincushiones in an upholstered chair.
What we saw of Málaga itself were half-constructed buildings & imposing cranes. We waited for our train to the airport, which was also under construction, & wondered where in this jumble we would find the cathedral & castle we'd read about in our guidebooks. After our second train ride of the day (& also of my lifetime, unless you're counting the Easter train at the mall), I started to understand why my host family thought everyone traveled via train. It's more spacious than a bus, & there's no traffic to contend with. It's a shame that trains never caught on in the States.
The next leg of our journey was our flight to belfast. Our airplane (Aer Lingus) was painted green with a 3-leaf clover on the tail. As we flwe over Málaga, I finally caught a glimpse of the beauty of the city: the green sloping mountains, the white houses of the city, the yellow beach & the choppy blue ocean. We flew over Great Britain & finally over the green patchwork quilt of Irish farmland. The view was so breathtaking that I forgot for a moment how much I hate flying & just enjoyed looking out the window.
We landed in the midst of a persistent drizzle; our first steps on Irish ground were spent sprinting from the plane to the shelter of the airport. From there, we caught a bus & checked into our respective hostels. The helpful receptionist called a Black Taxi for us, & we spent the next 2 hours immersed in Belfast's recent history. Our driver was knowledgeable & eager to share his opinions on the trouble between the Catholics & the Protestants. Being a Catholic himself & a formerly persecuted minority, he concentrated on his own side of the Peace Line. Seeing the towering wall itself was haunting, trying to imagine the people on either side living separated from the rest of their own city. The murals were equally chilling -- looking into the faces each side believed were doing just work.
After the taxi tour, we braved the rain to walk to the Belfast Wheel, a giant ferris wheel that currently resides next to City Hall. For 12 minutes, we went round & round in our gondola & tried to spot the buildings mentioned by the audio guide.
Day 1 photos here.
The next day, we got an early start & took a bus to Cave Hill County Park. I was struck at once by how green the park is; no wonder Ireland is considered the Emerald Isle! Our first stop was Belfast Castle, whose predecessor was built by the Normans in the late 12th century. A second version was constructed in 1611 but burned down less than a century later. The rpesent castle was built between 1862 & 1870 & was presented to the city of Belfast in 1934. My friends & I explored the castle garden, which is said to bring good luck to visitors so long as a white cat resides there. We searched for the 9 cats integrated into the garden's design, but I could only find 7. Then we took a peek inside the castle, which was being prepared for a wedding ceremony & reception. I have to admit that I was subconsciously scouting locations for wedding photos.
Next, we began our hike through the park. Being overly-ambitious, we selected the 4.5 mile Cave Hill trail. We passed the most visible of the man-made caves, whose origin is unknown, as well as the Devil's Punchbowl, which is suspected to be the remains of a limestone quarry. Exhausted, we ended our ascent at McArt's Fort, an early Christian ring fort on Cave Hill's highest rocky outcrop. Even though we didn't complete the entire 1207 ft climb, the views of Belfast, the docks & the sea were spectacular. Plus, everyone we encountered was friendly; there were hellos all around each time we passed another hiker. One nice man, whom we met at the caves ,volunteered himself & his 2 young sons as tour guides for part of the hike.
Entirely pleased with our excursion but a bit sore & muddy, we caught a bus back to the centre for lunch. We chose a little restaurant called Magennis's bar & had our first proper Irish meal: steak pie & Guinness. After lungh, we spent the afternoon visiting some of the city's sights, including the Bigfish sculpture, the clock tower & City Hall. Then, we indulged in some shopping & headed to Crown's Bar for a pint.
Day 2 photos here & here.
Sunday, we woke up early again & had an Irish breakfast at the Causeway Cafe, which is attached to our hostel. By 9:45 A.M., we were on the road with Mini Coach Tours for a coastal drive. Our driver, Ray, was wonderful. He filled the entire 2-hour drive to our final destination with historical facts, cultural explanations & the occasional personal anecdote. Our first stop was Carrickfergus Castle, which was built in the 1100s. Here Ray reinforced his request for punctuality by pretending to drive away from 3 latecomers. As they ran desperately behind the bus, trying to flag it down without spilling the coffee they just had to buy, the rest of us just laughed. We knew by this point that Ray was the best driver-slash-tour guide we could have hoped for.
The third stop on the tour (after a brief break at a convenience store) was Carrick-a-Rede, which translates to "Rock in the Road." The rock in question is Carrick Island, which fishermen have been connecting to the mainland via rope bridge for over 350 years. Originally used to reach salmon nets, the 21 m bridge is now open to tourists. My friends & I braved the incredibly steep stairs down to the bridge to wobble our way across to the island. We also saw Sheep Island, where the animals were stored in hopes that invaders would merely take the sheep & leave the locals alone, Stackaboy island & some gorgeous green oceanside cliffs. On the way out, I also caught a glimpse of the nearby limestone quarry. After Carrick-a-Rede, we made another quick stop at Bushmills Distillery, the oldest in Ireland & currently celebrating their 400 year anniversary.
Our fifth stop was the main attraction of the day: the Giant's Causeway. The World Heritage Site consists of rougly 40,000 hexigonal stone columns that stretch into the ocean. Legend states that Irish giant Finn MacCool built the causeway to reach Scotland & fight the giant Benandonner, but geologists claim a different story. The causeway was formed somewhere around 65 million years ago as a result of volcanic activity. As the lava flow cooled, the rock contracted & formed a hexagonal pattern, much as drying mud in a lake bed. According to Ray, the formations could disappear in as little as 100 years due to climate change, "but we'll be gone, too, so we might as well see them today." The 1/2 km walk down the coast to the causeway was filled wit hanticipation of the unknown; when I finally saw the columns, I was awestruck. I could not beleive that such carefully arranged rocks were merely the result of a geologic happenstance. It looked as if each had been individually chiseled & installed as part of some massive art exhibit. I couldn't take enough photos. After climbing on the result of millions of years of cooling lava & erosion, I took the clifftop path for an aerial view of the stones.
Our final stop on the tour was the Dunlace castle, which is more of a ruins now; in years past, part of the castle slid into the ocean, taking with it 7 cooks & that evening's dinner. After the tour, we turned in to get a few hours of sleep before our 3 A.M. wakeup call.
Day 3 photos here & here.
This morning, we were on a bus for the airport by 4 A.M. our flight left Ireland at 7 A.M., & we slept most of the way back to Málaga. From there, our group split up; while the other 3 girls headed to Sevilla, a friend & I stayed to take a self-guided walking tour. Like many Spanish cities, Málaga has seen Phoenicians, Islamic influence, & Spanish civil war, although its real claim to fame is its status as birthplace of Pablo Picasso (whose house we didn't see). We did, however, check out the catedral, the Alcazaba & the Roman theatre before returning to Sevilla.
Day 4 photos here.
Belfast has, by far, been my favorite weekend trip. After getting a hint of what Northern Ireland is like, I would love to visit again when I have more time to explore. The locas and the land itself have a way of welcoming you to experience the culture in a more intimate way than any other city I have visited. And I still can't get over how beautiful the saturated green hills are. Nos vemos, Le <3.
The city of Belfast is perhaps most famous for its ranking alongside Beirut, Baghdad & Bosnia as one of the four "B's for travelers to avoid. The troubles, which descended on the country in the late 1960s, dealt Belfast a blow from which it is still striving to recover; the so-called Peace line still stands imposingly dividing Catholic & Protestant neighborhoods, like a Berlin Wall that never fell. Numerous murals painted on commercial & resedential properties alike pay tribute to heroes, martyrs innocent victims on both sides of the struggle. The government is working to redevelop edifices whose walls still reverberate with the voilent energy of the past decades. At the same time, the city is perhaps the most beautiful I've ever seen, bordered on the east by the docks where the "Titanic" was built & on the west by green mountains.
Four friends & I left Sevilla for Málaga at 6:50 Friday morning via train. As the first day of our trip dawned, we watched little white villages pass our windows. The yellow lights shone from their places nestled into the mountainside. We passed farms with fields of little trees planted in diagonal lines like pincushiones in an upholstered chair.
What we saw of Málaga itself were half-constructed buildings & imposing cranes. We waited for our train to the airport, which was also under construction, & wondered where in this jumble we would find the cathedral & castle we'd read about in our guidebooks. After our second train ride of the day (& also of my lifetime, unless you're counting the Easter train at the mall), I started to understand why my host family thought everyone traveled via train. It's more spacious than a bus, & there's no traffic to contend with. It's a shame that trains never caught on in the States.
The next leg of our journey was our flight to belfast. Our airplane (Aer Lingus) was painted green with a 3-leaf clover on the tail. As we flwe over Málaga, I finally caught a glimpse of the beauty of the city: the green sloping mountains, the white houses of the city, the yellow beach & the choppy blue ocean. We flew over Great Britain & finally over the green patchwork quilt of Irish farmland. The view was so breathtaking that I forgot for a moment how much I hate flying & just enjoyed looking out the window.
We landed in the midst of a persistent drizzle; our first steps on Irish ground were spent sprinting from the plane to the shelter of the airport. From there, we caught a bus & checked into our respective hostels. The helpful receptionist called a Black Taxi for us, & we spent the next 2 hours immersed in Belfast's recent history. Our driver was knowledgeable & eager to share his opinions on the trouble between the Catholics & the Protestants. Being a Catholic himself & a formerly persecuted minority, he concentrated on his own side of the Peace Line. Seeing the towering wall itself was haunting, trying to imagine the people on either side living separated from the rest of their own city. The murals were equally chilling -- looking into the faces each side believed were doing just work.
After the taxi tour, we braved the rain to walk to the Belfast Wheel, a giant ferris wheel that currently resides next to City Hall. For 12 minutes, we went round & round in our gondola & tried to spot the buildings mentioned by the audio guide.
Day 1 photos here.
The next day, we got an early start & took a bus to Cave Hill County Park. I was struck at once by how green the park is; no wonder Ireland is considered the Emerald Isle! Our first stop was Belfast Castle, whose predecessor was built by the Normans in the late 12th century. A second version was constructed in 1611 but burned down less than a century later. The rpesent castle was built between 1862 & 1870 & was presented to the city of Belfast in 1934. My friends & I explored the castle garden, which is said to bring good luck to visitors so long as a white cat resides there. We searched for the 9 cats integrated into the garden's design, but I could only find 7. Then we took a peek inside the castle, which was being prepared for a wedding ceremony & reception. I have to admit that I was subconsciously scouting locations for wedding photos.
Next, we began our hike through the park. Being overly-ambitious, we selected the 4.5 mile Cave Hill trail. We passed the most visible of the man-made caves, whose origin is unknown, as well as the Devil's Punchbowl, which is suspected to be the remains of a limestone quarry. Exhausted, we ended our ascent at McArt's Fort, an early Christian ring fort on Cave Hill's highest rocky outcrop. Even though we didn't complete the entire 1207 ft climb, the views of Belfast, the docks & the sea were spectacular. Plus, everyone we encountered was friendly; there were hellos all around each time we passed another hiker. One nice man, whom we met at the caves ,volunteered himself & his 2 young sons as tour guides for part of the hike.
Entirely pleased with our excursion but a bit sore & muddy, we caught a bus back to the centre for lunch. We chose a little restaurant called Magennis's bar & had our first proper Irish meal: steak pie & Guinness. After lungh, we spent the afternoon visiting some of the city's sights, including the Bigfish sculpture, the clock tower & City Hall. Then, we indulged in some shopping & headed to Crown's Bar for a pint.
Day 2 photos here & here.
Sunday, we woke up early again & had an Irish breakfast at the Causeway Cafe, which is attached to our hostel. By 9:45 A.M., we were on the road with Mini Coach Tours for a coastal drive. Our driver, Ray, was wonderful. He filled the entire 2-hour drive to our final destination with historical facts, cultural explanations & the occasional personal anecdote. Our first stop was Carrickfergus Castle, which was built in the 1100s. Here Ray reinforced his request for punctuality by pretending to drive away from 3 latecomers. As they ran desperately behind the bus, trying to flag it down without spilling the coffee they just had to buy, the rest of us just laughed. We knew by this point that Ray was the best driver-slash-tour guide we could have hoped for.
The third stop on the tour (after a brief break at a convenience store) was Carrick-a-Rede, which translates to "Rock in the Road." The rock in question is Carrick Island, which fishermen have been connecting to the mainland via rope bridge for over 350 years. Originally used to reach salmon nets, the 21 m bridge is now open to tourists. My friends & I braved the incredibly steep stairs down to the bridge to wobble our way across to the island. We also saw Sheep Island, where the animals were stored in hopes that invaders would merely take the sheep & leave the locals alone, Stackaboy island & some gorgeous green oceanside cliffs. On the way out, I also caught a glimpse of the nearby limestone quarry. After Carrick-a-Rede, we made another quick stop at Bushmills Distillery, the oldest in Ireland & currently celebrating their 400 year anniversary.
Our fifth stop was the main attraction of the day: the Giant's Causeway. The World Heritage Site consists of rougly 40,000 hexigonal stone columns that stretch into the ocean. Legend states that Irish giant Finn MacCool built the causeway to reach Scotland & fight the giant Benandonner, but geologists claim a different story. The causeway was formed somewhere around 65 million years ago as a result of volcanic activity. As the lava flow cooled, the rock contracted & formed a hexagonal pattern, much as drying mud in a lake bed. According to Ray, the formations could disappear in as little as 100 years due to climate change, "but we'll be gone, too, so we might as well see them today." The 1/2 km walk down the coast to the causeway was filled wit hanticipation of the unknown; when I finally saw the columns, I was awestruck. I could not beleive that such carefully arranged rocks were merely the result of a geologic happenstance. It looked as if each had been individually chiseled & installed as part of some massive art exhibit. I couldn't take enough photos. After climbing on the result of millions of years of cooling lava & erosion, I took the clifftop path for an aerial view of the stones.
Our final stop on the tour was the Dunlace castle, which is more of a ruins now; in years past, part of the castle slid into the ocean, taking with it 7 cooks & that evening's dinner. After the tour, we turned in to get a few hours of sleep before our 3 A.M. wakeup call.
Day 3 photos here & here.
This morning, we were on a bus for the airport by 4 A.M. our flight left Ireland at 7 A.M., & we slept most of the way back to Málaga. From there, our group split up; while the other 3 girls headed to Sevilla, a friend & I stayed to take a self-guided walking tour. Like many Spanish cities, Málaga has seen Phoenicians, Islamic influence, & Spanish civil war, although its real claim to fame is its status as birthplace of Pablo Picasso (whose house we didn't see). We did, however, check out the catedral, the Alcazaba & the Roman theatre before returning to Sevilla.
Day 4 photos here.
Belfast has, by far, been my favorite weekend trip. After getting a hint of what Northern Ireland is like, I would love to visit again when I have more time to explore. The locas and the land itself have a way of welcoming you to experience the culture in a more intimate way than any other city I have visited. And I still can't get over how beautiful the saturated green hills are. Nos vemos, Le <3.
06 October 2008
La Plaza de Toros
Today after class, I visited the Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza, Sevilla's bullring. Built beginning in 1758, it is also the oldest bullring in Spain. I had already decided that I didn't want to attend a bullfight, but I was still curious to see the building itself. With seating for 13,800 fans, the stadium was immense. The tour I took also visited the tiny bullfighting museum housed in the Plaza & the horse stables.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
05 October 2008
Viaje a Lagos
Not unlike the cities of Spain, the seaside town of Lagos, Portugal holds a long & convoluted history. Throughout the ages, Lagos has been inhabited and conquered by Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths & Moors, though not necessarily in that order. In 1249, Lagos was conquered by Dom Alfonso III, who integrated the city into the kingdom of Portugal. Since then, Lagos has played an important role in New World exporations; it was home to Henry the Navigator & embarking point for Vasco de Gama. During this time period, Lagos was also the city through which African slaves entered Europe & served as the capital of Algave, the Moorish name for the southernmost region of Portugal. (The capital was moved in 1756, the year following the massive Lisbon earthquake & tsunami, which destroyed most of the historical buildings in Lagos.) Today, most of Lagos' population has gravitated toward the coastline, which generates tourism & is also the reason I found myself in Portugal this weekend.
Friday morning, I departed with Discover Sevilla, a travel agency marketing to American study abroad students. We took a tour bus for the 3-hour drive to Lagos. Crossing the border into Portugal was amazingly easy; we just kept driving. I didn't realize we were in a different country until I noticed that all the street signs were in Portuguese. We arrived at our hotel, Sol e Praia ("Sun and Beach"), which delivered exactly what is name promised. As soon as we had checked in, everyone rushed to the Praia Dona Ana. I had never seen a beach like this before; the shoreline was a series of looming cliffs, & the beaches were alcoves nestled between the rocks. Even the sand itself consisted of tiny pebbles, which were beautiful but painful on bare feet. I spent the afternoon relaxing on the shore & swimming in the water. Later, a few friends & I decided to explore the shoreline, & we found a "hidden" beach that could only be reached by climbing over part of a cliff.
When it got too cold to stay on the beach, we checked out the swimming pool on the roof of our hotel, but it was cold there, too. So a friend & I decided to walk along a little trail atop the cliffs. From the beach, we had no idea how far the shore continued on because everything was hidden behind the giant rocks. After walking for awhile, we found wooden stairs leading down to yet another small beach, which we also explored. Only after we finished the excursion did we notice the sign reading "Danger: Unstable Cliffs."
That night, our Discover Sevilla guides took us into the center for dinner. We ate at a restaurant called the Nah Nah Bah, where everyone (thankfully!) spoke English. It amazes me that businesses can make a living simply by having an English-speaking staff in a non-English speaking country. After dinner, we checked out a few of the bars on the map DS provided us, where the bartenders also all spoke English. Then we went to Joe's Garage, another bar, for a party DS organized. My friends & I left the rest of the group to their party; we were all exhausted & wanted to get some rest before day 2 of our adventure.
Day 1 photos here.
The next morning, we met in the lobby & headed to the harbor for our Bom Dia ("Good Day") 2-hour cruise. The boat took us along the shoreline & anchored at Ponta da Piedade, where we took turns riding in a small motorboat through the coves. We all screamed like girls (well, we were mostly girls) every time the boat turned; I felt like I was going to fall overboard. Our guide would stop the motor inside each of the coves, tell us its name & give us a chance to take photos before moving on. After our group returned to the bigger boat, we were allowed to jump off the side into the ocean, which I did. When all the groups had seen the coves, we headed back to the harbor & enjoyed the last of the free sangria.
After the sailboat cruise, we met up with the rest of the group (the sailboat cruise cost extra) for lunch at another beach, Meia Praia. Unlike most of Lagos' beaches, this one was free of cliffs & hidden underwater rocks. I swam for a bit then fell asleep on my towel until it was time to leave.
That evening, we boarded the bus again & headed for Cabo San Vicente, which is the southwesternmost point in Europe. The spot is named for Saint Vincent, a martyred Spanish priest. Like in Lagos, Cabo's buildings were all destroyed by the Lisbon earthquake; the lighthouse is built on the ruins of a 16th century Franciscan convent. According to some, Cabo San Vincente was considered the end of the world before explorers headed west & discovered the Americas. As we sat on the cliffs, watching the sun set on the ocean, I tried to imagine the horizon as the end of a cube-shaped earth. I thought of the explorers that dared to sail past the assumed edge of the earth, but I couldn't fully imagine either concept. The sunset against the ocean was inarguably the most beautiful I have ever seen.
After watching the sunset, we returned the the center for another dinner at the Nah Nah Bah. DS had organized another party, but I was too tired to go to the bar, so a friend & I decided to head back to the hotel. It wasn't until we got a bit lost that I fully realized that, for the first time, I was in a country where I couldn't speak the language at all. It's an incredibly frightening feeling to realize that, if you need help, you're at the mercy of anyone that can speak English. Luckily, we were only one street away from where we needed to be, & we returned to the hotel safely. That feeling of insecurity, however, is something that I will bear in mind in all future travels.
Day 2 photos here.
Today was our 3rd & final day in Portugal. A friend & I spent the morning at the "hidden" beach, which looked completely different at low tide. After lunch, we explored the center a bit, but most of the stores had already closed for the day. Around 5:00 PM, we boarded the bus & headed home to Sevilla. It was an incredible weekend in Lagos, & I'm sorry to see it end. I never imagined that one day, I would be lying on a Portuguese beach, working on my tan in October. I have to say, though, that I am happy to be back in Sevilla, where I can somewhat speak the language & can navigate the city. But I'm sure that after a few days of classes, I'll be daydreaming of the beautiful beaches of Lagos...
Day 3 photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Friday morning, I departed with Discover Sevilla, a travel agency marketing to American study abroad students. We took a tour bus for the 3-hour drive to Lagos. Crossing the border into Portugal was amazingly easy; we just kept driving. I didn't realize we were in a different country until I noticed that all the street signs were in Portuguese. We arrived at our hotel, Sol e Praia ("Sun and Beach"), which delivered exactly what is name promised. As soon as we had checked in, everyone rushed to the Praia Dona Ana. I had never seen a beach like this before; the shoreline was a series of looming cliffs, & the beaches were alcoves nestled between the rocks. Even the sand itself consisted of tiny pebbles, which were beautiful but painful on bare feet. I spent the afternoon relaxing on the shore & swimming in the water. Later, a few friends & I decided to explore the shoreline, & we found a "hidden" beach that could only be reached by climbing over part of a cliff.
When it got too cold to stay on the beach, we checked out the swimming pool on the roof of our hotel, but it was cold there, too. So a friend & I decided to walk along a little trail atop the cliffs. From the beach, we had no idea how far the shore continued on because everything was hidden behind the giant rocks. After walking for awhile, we found wooden stairs leading down to yet another small beach, which we also explored. Only after we finished the excursion did we notice the sign reading "Danger: Unstable Cliffs."
That night, our Discover Sevilla guides took us into the center for dinner. We ate at a restaurant called the Nah Nah Bah, where everyone (thankfully!) spoke English. It amazes me that businesses can make a living simply by having an English-speaking staff in a non-English speaking country. After dinner, we checked out a few of the bars on the map DS provided us, where the bartenders also all spoke English. Then we went to Joe's Garage, another bar, for a party DS organized. My friends & I left the rest of the group to their party; we were all exhausted & wanted to get some rest before day 2 of our adventure.
Day 1 photos here.
The next morning, we met in the lobby & headed to the harbor for our Bom Dia ("Good Day") 2-hour cruise. The boat took us along the shoreline & anchored at Ponta da Piedade, where we took turns riding in a small motorboat through the coves. We all screamed like girls (well, we were mostly girls) every time the boat turned; I felt like I was going to fall overboard. Our guide would stop the motor inside each of the coves, tell us its name & give us a chance to take photos before moving on. After our group returned to the bigger boat, we were allowed to jump off the side into the ocean, which I did. When all the groups had seen the coves, we headed back to the harbor & enjoyed the last of the free sangria.
After the sailboat cruise, we met up with the rest of the group (the sailboat cruise cost extra) for lunch at another beach, Meia Praia. Unlike most of Lagos' beaches, this one was free of cliffs & hidden underwater rocks. I swam for a bit then fell asleep on my towel until it was time to leave.
That evening, we boarded the bus again & headed for Cabo San Vicente, which is the southwesternmost point in Europe. The spot is named for Saint Vincent, a martyred Spanish priest. Like in Lagos, Cabo's buildings were all destroyed by the Lisbon earthquake; the lighthouse is built on the ruins of a 16th century Franciscan convent. According to some, Cabo San Vincente was considered the end of the world before explorers headed west & discovered the Americas. As we sat on the cliffs, watching the sun set on the ocean, I tried to imagine the horizon as the end of a cube-shaped earth. I thought of the explorers that dared to sail past the assumed edge of the earth, but I couldn't fully imagine either concept. The sunset against the ocean was inarguably the most beautiful I have ever seen.
After watching the sunset, we returned the the center for another dinner at the Nah Nah Bah. DS had organized another party, but I was too tired to go to the bar, so a friend & I decided to head back to the hotel. It wasn't until we got a bit lost that I fully realized that, for the first time, I was in a country where I couldn't speak the language at all. It's an incredibly frightening feeling to realize that, if you need help, you're at the mercy of anyone that can speak English. Luckily, we were only one street away from where we needed to be, & we returned to the hotel safely. That feeling of insecurity, however, is something that I will bear in mind in all future travels.
Day 2 photos here.
Today was our 3rd & final day in Portugal. A friend & I spent the morning at the "hidden" beach, which looked completely different at low tide. After lunch, we explored the center a bit, but most of the stores had already closed for the day. Around 5:00 PM, we boarded the bus & headed home to Sevilla. It was an incredible weekend in Lagos, & I'm sorry to see it end. I never imagined that one day, I would be lying on a Portuguese beach, working on my tan in October. I have to say, though, that I am happy to be back in Sevilla, where I can somewhat speak the language & can navigate the city. But I'm sure that after a few days of classes, I'll be daydreaming of the beautiful beaches of Lagos...
Day 3 photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
26 September 2008
Torre del Oro y el Paseo de las Delicias
In the 13th century A.D., the Almohad (Moorish) dynasty constructed a fortification wall around the city of Sevilla. The tallest part of the structure, the Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold), still stands beside the Río Guadalquivir, and the smaller Torre de la Plata (Tower of Silver) is nearby. This afternoon, I visited the Torre & took an audio tour of its convoluted history. The math major in me was fascinated to discover that each tower in the fortification wall became taller & more multi-faceted until the wall culminated in the dodecagonal Torre del Oro. Over the centuries, the Torre was used by both Muslim & Christian rulers for a variety of purposes, including a prison, a storehouse for treasures from the New World, an embarking point for royal vacations, an entertainment venue for royalty, & a meetingplace for rulers & their mistresses. There were also failed attempts to convert it into a lighthouse (the beacon-looking structure is purely for decoration) & an office space (which is the reason the fortress has so many windows). The structure has been renovated several times, most notably after the Lisbon earthquake of 1755 caused the Torre considerable damage. While the origin of the tower's name is still subject to debate, the favored theory seems to be that the tower was once covered in a golden material.
After my tour of the Torre, I retraced my steps to find what I believe is the Torre de la Plata, the lesser-known (& obviously lesser-treasured) remaining tower. Then I wandered along the Paseo de las Delicias, which runs parallel to the Guadalquivir, & found some other interesting buildings. Seeing the river makes me feel a bit connected with the city; just like Pittsburgh, Sevilla was built for its proximity to the river. Although the addition of canals has significantly lowered the water level in the centuries since the city's birth, it's still clear how intertwined Sevilla & the Guadalquivir have become. It's just one more familiar elemant in what is both literally & figuratively a foreign land.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
After my tour of the Torre, I retraced my steps to find what I believe is the Torre de la Plata, the lesser-known (& obviously lesser-treasured) remaining tower. Then I wandered along the Paseo de las Delicias, which runs parallel to the Guadalquivir, & found some other interesting buildings. Seeing the river makes me feel a bit connected with the city; just like Pittsburgh, Sevilla was built for its proximity to the river. Although the addition of canals has significantly lowered the water level in the centuries since the city's birth, it's still clear how intertwined Sevilla & the Guadalquivir have become. It's just one more familiar elemant in what is both literally & figuratively a foreign land.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
24 September 2008
¡Vamos a pie!
Since I haven't added any new pictures in a few days, let me give you some fun facts on distances in Sevilla:
my apartment to CIEE study center: 1.23 mi
my apartment to University of Sevilla study center: 1.36 mi
my apartment to Calle Sierpes (shopping district): 0.93 mi
my apartment to Calle Betis (bar/restaurant district): 2.01 mi
CIEE study center to Cerveceria 100 Montaditos (my favorite tapas bar): 0.41 mi
For those of you keeping score at home, that means that in a typical day, I walk a bare minimum of 2.46 mi if I go nowhere except to CIEE & back home. If I get something to eat after class (& I usually do), that brings the total to 3.28 mi. Adding in a second exursion (to El Corte Inglés to shop, to Calle Feria for class, to the Museo de Bellas Artes for class), & I'd estimate I'm up to about 4.5 mi. Add in my nightly run, & we're at 7.22 mi. Finally, factor in a trip to Calle Betis for a drink, & we're at 11.24 mi. Considering that yesterday I did all of the above, plus got lost for about 45 minutes, it's no wonder my feet hurt a bit today.
I've also learned that distance is, in fact, a relative measurement. When a native of Seville tells you that something is "very close" to your present location, it really means you could be walking for up to 20 minutes, or between 1.25 & 1.33 mi, to get there. Luckily, the terrain here is flat -- no Pittsburgh hills to contend with -- so at least it's easy walking. Good thing I brought my running shoes!
PS: If you're taking the time to read this, chances are you're one of the people I'm missing talking to. So please feel free to e-mail me at lzaccone@gmail.com & let me know what's going on!
Nos vemos, Le <3.
my apartment to CIEE study center: 1.23 mi
my apartment to University of Sevilla study center: 1.36 mi
my apartment to Calle Sierpes (shopping district): 0.93 mi
my apartment to Calle Betis (bar/restaurant district): 2.01 mi
CIEE study center to Cerveceria 100 Montaditos (my favorite tapas bar): 0.41 mi
For those of you keeping score at home, that means that in a typical day, I walk a bare minimum of 2.46 mi if I go nowhere except to CIEE & back home. If I get something to eat after class (& I usually do), that brings the total to 3.28 mi. Adding in a second exursion (to El Corte Inglés to shop, to Calle Feria for class, to the Museo de Bellas Artes for class), & I'd estimate I'm up to about 4.5 mi. Add in my nightly run, & we're at 7.22 mi. Finally, factor in a trip to Calle Betis for a drink, & we're at 11.24 mi. Considering that yesterday I did all of the above, plus got lost for about 45 minutes, it's no wonder my feet hurt a bit today.
I've also learned that distance is, in fact, a relative measurement. When a native of Seville tells you that something is "very close" to your present location, it really means you could be walking for up to 20 minutes, or between 1.25 & 1.33 mi, to get there. Luckily, the terrain here is flat -- no Pittsburgh hills to contend with -- so at least it's easy walking. Good thing I brought my running shoes!
PS: If you're taking the time to read this, chances are you're one of the people I'm missing talking to. So please feel free to e-mail me at lzaccone@gmail.com & let me know what's going on!
Nos vemos, Le <3.
21 September 2008
Excursión a Cádiz
Today marked the second excursion organized by my program. We visited the port city of Cádiz, which may be the oldest city in Europe. Founded as the trading base Gadir by the Phoenicians around 1100 B.C., Cádiz also has bragging rights as Columbus' embarking point on his second & fourth voyages. It follows, then, that the city's golden age was the 18th century, when the city prospered by 75% of Spanish trade with the Americas. After the loss of the American colonies in the 19th century, however, Cádiz plunged from its place as the richest & most cosmopolitan city in Spain.
CIEE led us on a walking tour around the city, where we saw the neoclassical ayuntamiento (city hall), circa 1800, & the catedral, whose origianl baroque facade was also completed in the neoclassical style. We climbed the dizzying concrete spiral ramp of the catedral's western tower for a 360º aerial view of the city. From here, we could really appreciate the differences in the air as well as the vista: it felt humid & breezy, & there was a distinct smell of salt. After the torre, our guide led us on a seemingly endless tour of old city streets, oceanside promenades & plazas. We all knew that both the beach & our 4 hours of "tiempo libre" were tantalizingly close, & even I found it hard to concentrate on photographing the sights.
Finally, we stopped in front of a beach & were released for the afternoon. Some friends & I spent our time swimming, laying out, tossing a frisbee & rediscovering that there's a reason the ocean is described as "briny." All in all, both an educational & entertaining excursion.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
CIEE led us on a walking tour around the city, where we saw the neoclassical ayuntamiento (city hall), circa 1800, & the catedral, whose origianl baroque facade was also completed in the neoclassical style. We climbed the dizzying concrete spiral ramp of the catedral's western tower for a 360º aerial view of the city. From here, we could really appreciate the differences in the air as well as the vista: it felt humid & breezy, & there was a distinct smell of salt. After the torre, our guide led us on a seemingly endless tour of old city streets, oceanside promenades & plazas. We all knew that both the beach & our 4 hours of "tiempo libre" were tantalizingly close, & even I found it hard to concentrate on photographing the sights.
Finally, we stopped in front of a beach & were released for the afternoon. Some friends & I spent our time swimming, laying out, tossing a frisbee & rediscovering that there's a reason the ocean is described as "briny." All in all, both an educational & entertaining excursion.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
20 September 2008
Alcázares Reales
Originally a Moorish fort, Alcázar derives its name from the Arabic word for "fort." (All Spanish words that begin with "al-," roughly translated as "the," have Arabic origins. Think of the English word "algebra.") Since its founding in A.D. 913, the Alcázar has undergone numerous renovations by both Muslim & Christian residents. This explains the appearance of Gothic elements in what was once an entirely Moorish structure.
Photos here.
After visiting Alcázares Reales, we walked to La Plaza de España. While my friends enjoyed their first visit to the Plaza, I discovered a balcony I hadn't climbed to the first time around.
New photos at the end of the album.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Photos here.
After visiting Alcázares Reales, we walked to La Plaza de España. While my friends enjoyed their first visit to the Plaza, I discovered a balcony I hadn't climbed to the first time around.
New photos at the end of the album.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
19 September 2008
La Avenida de la Constitución
Today after class, a friend & I wandered la Avenida de la Constitución, the Main Street of sorts of Sevilla. The road is closed to automobile traffic, which leaves room for pedestrians, bicyclists & a slow-speed tram. The avenue's main attraction is, of course, the Catedral, whose original mosque was torn down as a combination of its own decay, Sevilla's fall to the Christians & a common goal: "Let us create such a building that future generations will take us for lunatics." The new structure was completed in 1507 in the Gothic style, but when its central dome collapsed in 1511, the repairs were done mostly in the Renaissance style. Other sights include the Post Office, the Bank of Sevilla & a few other stops that aren't technically on the Avenida.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
17 September 2008
Los Jardines de Murillo
In my treks across the city, I have passed a little park several times now. Today, camera in hand, I decided to walk through it. For bordering a four-lane road, the park itself is incredibly peaceful. The towering palm trees are still a novelty to me, and so is the dirt, which is more of a mustard color than any familiar shade of brown. I've also noticed that the ground is almost entirely without grass, which is probably due to the drought plauging the city. Still, the park was beautiful with its fountains, monuments and decorative tile -- three things in abundance in Sevilla.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
¿Tengo que estudiar, también?
El Palacio, the CIEE study center, is a three-story building tucked into a narrow side street. In order to get there, one must take a lot of other windy, bumpy stone streets. These were constructed years before anyone could have realized that one day, both cars & pedestrians would try to share these tiny passageways. Thus, the front doors of the palacio open directly onto the street, save about 12 inches of what Spaniards call "sidewalk." The building itself consists of 2 levels of small classrooms centered around an open-air courtyard of sorts, where a fountain now sits. What they call the third floor is actually the roof, but it is also surrounded by rooms that now serve as offices. A striped tarp is stretched across the railing of the third floor to provide shade in the courtyard. Except for the somewhat spacious lobby/courtyard, everything about the building is tall & thin. Like many buildings in this city, it exemplifies the old adage of urban living: if you can't build out, build up.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
16 September 2008
¡Vamos de compras!
About 10 minutes from my host family's apartment lie the Calles Sierpes and Tetuán/Velázquez, the central shopping district of Sevilla. The narrow, stone streets are lined with elegant 3-story buildings that require a bit of neck craning to fully admire. Spanning many of the buildings are giant white tarps, some bearing the Coca Cola logo, which provide shade for weary shoppers. Put together, the effect is somewhat like standing in a flower vase looking up at a billowing sail -- enclosed and protected but not penned in. The variety of items offered here is all-encompasing: wedding gowns, fans, jewelry, baby clothes, books, American and European brand names... even a sex shop hidden down an enclosed alleyway. The variety of architecture found in the buildings is equally impressive; like the rest of this city, the Calle Sierpes seemlessly incorporates new edifices into the centuries-old landscape.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
15 September 2008
La Plaza de España
The buildings in the Plaza de España were constructed for the 1929 international fiar, where the Spanish-speaking countries came together for a mutual admiration fiesta. The intricate tiel work depicts historic scenes & maps for every province in Spain, arranged alphabetically fromn Alava to Zaragoza.
After visiting Itálica, some friends & I walked to the Plaza. Assuming I'd be seeing a fountain & an intersection of streets, I was completely taken aback when we passed through the doors of a seemingly-plain edifice into the grand plaza.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
After visiting Itálica, some friends & I walked to the Plaza. Assuming I'd be seeing a fountain & an intersection of streets, I was completely taken aback when we passed through the doors of a seemingly-plain edifice into the grand plaza.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
14 September 2008
Excursión a Itálica
In 206 B.C., Itálica was established by a Roman General as a site for wounded soliders to recuperate from battle during the Second Punic War. In addition to being the first Roman city in Spain, Itálica provided 2 emperors, Trajan & Hadrian, who ruled druing the second century A.D. Today, Itálica is famous for its amphitheatre, which seats approximately 30,000 spectators, & its surviving mosaics.
When we began our tour today, we started in front of a heap of ruins supported with "reconstructed" brick & metal. For a while, my friends & I were wondering if all we would be seeing was a pile of rubble. But as we followed the guide up some stiars & through an archway, we realized that we were overlooking the expansive amphitheatre. From that unanticipated moment of discovery, our tour became a rush to take as many photographs as possible while keeping up with the brisk pace of our guide. Needless to say, in my case, the former won, so please excuse the photos for which I don´t have a thorough explanation.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
When we began our tour today, we started in front of a heap of ruins supported with "reconstructed" brick & metal. For a while, my friends & I were wondering if all we would be seeing was a pile of rubble. But as we followed the guide up some stiars & through an archway, we realized that we were overlooking the expansive amphitheatre. From that unanticipated moment of discovery, our tour became a rush to take as many photographs as possible while keeping up with the brisk pace of our guide. Needless to say, in my case, the former won, so please excuse the photos for which I don´t have a thorough explanation.
Photos here.
Nos vemos, Le <3.
13 September 2008
Mi familia española
On Wednesday afternoon, after more orientation sessions, we returned to the Hotel Bécquer to find our host families crowded into the tiny lobby, waiting to meet their new niño or niña. Working my way through the crowd toward the elevator, I found myself wondering which of these señoras I would be leaving with. Matching students with their families was chaos; one wide-eyed student after another struggling both to drag her luggage through the hubbub & to understand the rapid-fire greetings & questions of her host family.
Finally, my name was called & I met my señora, Piedad. I think I muttered a sleep-deprived “Mucho gusto” before losing track completely of what she was trying to tell me. Outside, her husband Paco’s car had broken down, so she & I took a taxi to the apartment building while he stayed with the car. With the help of my dictionary, I asked if she had hosted other students; she replied that I would be the 18th. The taxi made so many turns that I lost any sense of direction in the narrow streets, but eventually we arrived at my new home in the Puerta Osario zone of Sevilla.
my host family, Paco & Piedad
Finally, my name was called & I met my señora, Piedad. I think I muttered a sleep-deprived “Mucho gusto” before losing track completely of what she was trying to tell me. Outside, her husband Paco’s car had broken down, so she & I took a taxi to the apartment building while he stayed with the car. With the help of my dictionary, I asked if she had hosted other students; she replied that I would be the 18th. The taxi made so many turns that I lost any sense of direction in the narrow streets, but eventually we arrived at my new home in the Puerta Osario zone of Sevilla.
my neighborhood
my apartment building
my host family, Paco & Piedad
Piedad showed me to my room & left me to settle in while she prepared lunch. When Paco returned, we ate & talked as best we could. I asked why they decided to start hosting students, & they replied that they enjoy learning about the United States as well as helping Americans to learn about Spain. They are both very interested in my family, my hometown & my home university; when Piedad saw me unpacking photos, she & Paco immediately asked to see them & to know who everyone was. The next day at breakfast, Paco brought out an atlas & asked me to point out Pittsburgh. Then we read about the city’s history in his encyclopedia. Later, the three of us looked at pictures of Carlow, Oakland & Pittsburgh on my laptop.
my room
the bulletin board has photos of all the previous exchange students
These past few days, I don’t think that my host family could have been any nicer or more helpful. When I had to find the Palacio (the CIEE study center) only hours after arriving in the apartment, Paco & Piedad walked the 30-minute route with me to make sure I wouldn’t get lost. When I told them I wanted to read about Itálica before my group’s excursion there this weekend, both recounted the site’s history. They enjoy talking & asking questions, some of which I never would have anticipated; Paco asked if I like Glenn Miller’s music, & Piedad asked if I have ever played Rummikub.
Of course, living with a Spanish family introduced a few new rules. First, shoes should always be worn inside the house. There is an old wives’ tale saying that those who go barefoot on tile floors will catch cold, and Spaniards still observe this tradition. This is a new concept for me because I usually take off my shoes whenever possible. Second, anything not currently in use should be turned off or unplugged. My family uses electricity as rarely as possible, unplugging the toaster and shutting off the power strip for the television each time they’re done watching it. This is also a change for me, since I’m used to leaving my computer on, usually with several gadgets charging in the USB ports.
But perhaps the most unfamiliar rule I have encountered in my homestay involves parking cars. On my street & many others, double parking is necessary in order to have enough spaces. When someone does double park, however, they're not supposed to use the emergency brake. That way, a driver that is blocked in can clear a path herself by pushing the other cars backward or forward until there is enough room to drive. If someone forgets or chooses not to put the car in neutral, the driver hoping to leave lays on the horn until the offending driver appears to move his car; if no one appears, the police will tow the vehicle.
Of course, living with a Spanish family introduced a few new rules. First, shoes should always be worn inside the house. There is an old wives’ tale saying that those who go barefoot on tile floors will catch cold, and Spaniards still observe this tradition. This is a new concept for me because I usually take off my shoes whenever possible. Second, anything not currently in use should be turned off or unplugged. My family uses electricity as rarely as possible, unplugging the toaster and shutting off the power strip for the television each time they’re done watching it. This is also a change for me, since I’m used to leaving my computer on, usually with several gadgets charging in the USB ports.
But perhaps the most unfamiliar rule I have encountered in my homestay involves parking cars. On my street & many others, double parking is necessary in order to have enough spaces. When someone does double park, however, they're not supposed to use the emergency brake. That way, a driver that is blocked in can clear a path herself by pushing the other cars backward or forward until there is enough room to drive. If someone forgets or chooses not to put the car in neutral, the driver hoping to leave lays on the horn until the offending driver appears to move his car; if no one appears, the police will tow the vehicle.
[coming soon: videos of the parking situation]
After a few days of settling in, I am looking forward to next week’s events. Sunday, we take a day trip to Itálica. Monday, our intensive language course begins & I can sign up for the theatre special interest group. Thursday, there is a mixer for us & for Spanish students interested in practicing English. Plus, I still need to explore this gorgeous city, see the sights & find the pool hall my guide told me about! Nos vemos, Le <3.
09 September 2008
¿Cómo se dice…?
After a good night’s sleep, everything here is still foreign. The lights in our hotel room only turn on when the key card is inserted into a slot by the door. Pedestrians, bicyclists, moped & automobile drivers all share narrow one-way streets. The local bank displays the temperature in Celsius & the hour in military time. Societal standards are different: feet belong in slippers or shoes & on the floor at all times, & full meals are taken at mealtimes whether one is hungry or not. Even seemingly familiar objects have an air of peculiarity about them. Traffic lights are painted green instead of yellow, street signs have similar meanings but different symbols, & our hotel room key looks like a computer punch card from the 1950s.
And what would be a simple task in the U.S. becomes both a challenge & an adventure in Sevilla. To purchase & mail a postcard today required 3 dictionary consultations & 2 requests for help at the front desk. In the end, of course, it still was a simple task, but who knew stamps are sold at a kiosk labeled “tabaco”? Everything here is done a bit differently, & learning new procedures is always a bit trying.
Even in the midst of mounting differences, however, familiarities can always be found. Tonight, mine arrived in the form of theatre. After dinner, our program treated us to a local flamenco show. Just seeing the stage in front of me made me feel comfortable; at least in this instance, I would know the procedures. The performance consisted of a guitarist, a singer & two dancers performing on a simple platform in the plaza of a hotel. The male dancer was particularly entrancing in his intensity; when he stepped from the platform toward us, I heard gasps escape from all sides.
This is our second & final night in the Hotel Becquer, with all its strange procedures. Tomorrow afternoon, I will meet my host family & move into their home. Undoubtedly, the move will be accompanied by all sorts of new procedures, but hopefully there too will be hidden glimpses of familiarity. Nos vemos, Le <3.
08 September 2008
He llegado
After nearly 24 hours of traveling, I’m happy to say that I’m writing my first entry from Sevilla. Luckily for me, the worst thing that happened during my flights was spilling orange juice all over my pants somewhere above Europe. Also luckily, I sat next to 2 nice gentlemen on the first 2 legs of my flight (Pittsburgh to Philadelphia & Philadelphia to Madrid).
Flying east at dusk is an almost indescribable experience. There is something unsettling about flying into the sunset, however poetic it may sound. Night falls all too quickly, especially over the ocean. The brain understands that you are flying across time zones toward a later point in the night, but your breath still catches each time the mind asserts that darkness has fallen all too quickly.
The aerial views of the cities, however, are beautiful. I couldn’t get over how level Philadelphia was or what perfect right angles the streets formed. Madrid just before sunrise was equally gorgeous, visible only as concentrated centers of light on a dark earth.
Before I get too carried away waxing poetic, however, I have to admit that I do also have a fear of flying, facilitated mostly by “The Twilight Zone.” When I realized I was overlooking the wing on 2 of my 3 flights, I couldn’t help but recall the famous Shatner episode.
what I saw:
Now I’m writing from the Hotel Bécquer, where I’ll be staying for the next few days for orientation. Although we were escorted here by bus, it was still a self-guided adventure, as was decoding the mystery of international calling using a pay phone. An acquaintance & I have already been asked to switch rooms once the fourth & fifth roommates arrived in our 3-bed living space.
the new room:
This is all only temporary, though, & what I am hoping is a result of the chaos of check-in. Tonight is our first official group meeting, which I am hoping will provide more information & guidance regarding what’s to come. And once I know, you’ll know. Nos vemos, Le <3.
Flying east at dusk is an almost indescribable experience. There is something unsettling about flying into the sunset, however poetic it may sound. Night falls all too quickly, especially over the ocean. The brain understands that you are flying across time zones toward a later point in the night, but your breath still catches each time the mind asserts that darkness has fallen all too quickly.
The aerial views of the cities, however, are beautiful. I couldn’t get over how level Philadelphia was or what perfect right angles the streets formed. Madrid just before sunrise was equally gorgeous, visible only as concentrated centers of light on a dark earth.
Before I get too carried away waxing poetic, however, I have to admit that I do also have a fear of flying, facilitated mostly by “The Twilight Zone.” When I realized I was overlooking the wing on 2 of my 3 flights, I couldn’t help but recall the famous Shatner episode.
what I saw:
what Shatner saw:
Now I’m writing from the Hotel Bécquer, where I’ll be staying for the next few days for orientation. Although we were escorted here by bus, it was still a self-guided adventure, as was decoding the mystery of international calling using a pay phone. An acquaintance & I have already been asked to switch rooms once the fourth & fifth roommates arrived in our 3-bed living space.
the new room:
This is all only temporary, though, & what I am hoping is a result of the chaos of check-in. Tonight is our first official group meeting, which I am hoping will provide more information & guidance regarding what’s to come. And once I know, you’ll know. Nos vemos, Le <3.
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